Smoothness Grade Based On Fabric Mechanical Properties Of Clothing Sewing The Establishment Of An Objective Evaluation System

With the criterion systems of quality and measurement generalizing in the world and the requirement of Quick Response System in garment manufacturing, it is necessary to set up a series of objective evaluation systems of garment quality in manufacturing based on the fabric properties. In this thesis, we carried out a series of research using FAST (Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing) system to measure the mechanical properties of fabric. The research involves four aspects, which have the strong relations with each other: research on the relationship between fabric mechanical properties and garment seam pucker grade, investigation of the relationship between fabric mechanical properties and seam pucker grade in the bias direction, study on the relationship between mechanical properties of fused composites and those of the face and fusible interlining fabrics, introducing some pattern recognition such as various statistic theories, regression analysis and artificial neural network to establish the objective evaluation systems of the fabric seam-pucker grade and fused composites seam-pucker grade in tailored garment.The brief introductions of each chapter are as follows:Chapter 1 gave the summaries of recent research work in the field of garment seam-pucker grade assessment for both overseas and domestic. The aspects involved included the significances of establishment of objective evaluation system of fabric seam-pucker grade in the garment manufacturing, methods and instruments of measuring the fabric mechanical and seam-pucker of the garments, and the ways to set up the impersonal assessment of garment seam-pucker grade.Chapter 2 firstly used Kendall's tau-b and Spearman's rho analyses to investigate the relativities between the garment seam-pucker grades and the fabric mechanicals properties such as structural properties, extension properties, bending properties, shearproperties, formability and dimension stability. The conclusion is that there are strong relationships between seven structural mechanical properties of the fabric and garment seam-pucker grades, also relationships within themselves. All of the extension mechanical properties have the relations with the garment seam-pucker grades except the properties of EB5 and G those have the relations with other properties. The bending length C has the less relations with garment seam-pucker than bending rigidity B which was calculated from bending length and has strong relationship with bending length. Fabric formability has the obvious relativity with the garment seam-pucker grade, and fabric relaxation shrinkage has the stronger relation with the garment seam-pucker grade than the fabric hygral expansion in the dimension stability, and they have lower relativity with each other. We also investigated the changes of garment seam-pucker grades in different woven fabrics along with the changes of the fabric mechanical properties.When we make the 2-D fabrics into the 3-D garments, cutting and sewing the fabrics along the bias directions is inevitable. Owing to the fabric anisotropy, some mechanical properties such as extension properties, bending properties and formability have different values in the different directions. So it must be solved that we may predict the mechanical property values of any directions of fabric by means of the values of warp and weft of fabric measured with FAST system in garment seam-pucker objective assessment. In Chapter 3, we studied on the changes of fabric mechanical properties and garment seam-pucker grades through experimentation with the fabrics made up in the bias directions. We concluded that the woven fabrics have the largest extension in the 45° direction and gradually descend to warp and weft directions. The largest bending rigidity mostly occurred in warp direction and came down to weft direction because warp density is mostly bigger than weft density in woven fabrics. But if there were twist distortions in woven fabrics, the smallest bending rigidity occurred in one point between warp and weftdirection. The changes of fo...