A Historical & Cultural Study On Emperor's MianFu Of China

In the section of Chinese ancient long-breathing history,MianFu (冕服),which was the official costume worn by monarchs and officials of antiquity when they attended grand sacrificial rituals,had been in herited continuously,meanwhile,the various influence impacted throug h the different stages.The relevant reference and documentary on Mian Fu system evolution will be cleaned out wholly in this paper,and the coherence of MianFu and the cultural signification of the evolution ar e estimated basically.The content of this paper is inspected by the integration and the classification.The entirely and comprehensively research on the forma tion and the evolution on MianFu system of the Chinese ancient emperor s are mainly investigated with the way of the whole integration.And t he main elements,formed MianFu,and the content of the Twelve Symbols ["Regalia"]are analyzed and compared depending on the corresponding characteristics and the classification.In the narration on research,it mainly used the induction and inc orporated with the ways of comparing and contrasting.Meanwhile,the w ay of the illustration and the figure are more often utilized.And als o,it utilized the philology research' measure on the historical docu mentary and reference on MianFu system.The origin of the MianFu could be come back to the stage while the beginning at the dressing of human being.However,MianFu,which had been owned and formed at some degree of the stipulated model,would be in the Zhou dynasty.MianFu in Zhou dynasty was classified as titled as Daqiu Mian(Grea t fur coat and Mian Crown),Gun Mian(Dragon robe and Mian Crown),Bi M Jan(Golden pheasant robe and Mian Crown),Cui Mian(Fine hair on anima ls robe and Mian Crown),Zhi Mian(Eubroidery robe and Mian Crown),Xua n Mian(Red lack colour robe and Mian Crown).Six kinds of MianFu[Six-M ian]dressed depending on the different occasion demand.Six-Mian,som etimes,had been appeared by other titles in the stage of the "return to the ancients" at the dynasties after the Han dynasty.However,the main option in successive dynasties was Gun Mian.The Gun Mian in a series of MianFu,was most elegant garment.The main ch aracteristics,which were distinguished with another MianFu,were the quantity of the tassels,as well as the "Regalia"(twelve or nine:d epending on the difference with the correspondent dynasty).Daqiu Mian was originally the first-in-first MianFu in Six-Mian.T he symbol of signification was the most respect and the most exclusive obviously.The most elaborated courtesy conception on coherence in the Chinese ancient garment is cleaned out,through the relevant content a rranged with Xi Jacket(裼衣:This jacket wears on the fur robe.When t be most formal ceremony celebrates,the robe on this jacket is naked t o the waist(This robe is on wearer's body still) and appears this ja cket and the fur robe in this jacket for the sake of beauty) and Xi ro be(This robe is the outer clothes of the full dresses;wears on Xi Jac ket).Furthermore,some other more detailed view-explanations are poin ted out on Daqiu Mian and fur coat.There are fifty official titles,which were relative with the garm ent in《Zhou Li》(a classical work in ancient China).Those titles ar e classified as three parts:titled as,the ornament & courtesy-ceremo ny officer,the inspection management officer,and the manufactory off icer.This chapter showed the manufactory system of the MianFu in Zhou dynasty through comparing and analyzing the correspondent responsibil ity of the officials ranking,for the first time.MianFu system in the successive dynasty,after the Chin-Han dynast y,was divided into three stages depending on the appeared characteris tics in different stages:the stage of the primary development(from C hin-Han dynasty to Tang dynasty),the stage of the wearing-style fixed and the simplicity(from Five-stage dynasty to Ming dynasty),the sta ge of the cancellation and the resurrection(from thing dynasty to the primary stage of Republic of China).This chapter showed the occupied position on MianFu in the emperors ornament serial and the much exten sive comprehension on successive emperors MianFu system itself,throug h the main arrangement on the official record on the system.And it al so showed prominent profile features on the system of the successive M ianFu system. In Generally,a full set of MianFu is including fourteen main sect ions:the crown,the jacket,the skirt,ZhongYi(中衣:the cloth wearin g between the inner wear and the outer robe of the full dress),GeDai (a leather belt),DaDai(the broad belt of silk textiles),BiXi(axeshap ed kneecover),PeiYu(the jade pendant),Shou(the ribbon attached to a n official seal or jade pendant in early period,afterwards becoming a n ornament of the full dress),socks,Xi(clog),the sword.This paper classified those sections as three parts depending on the character th emselves:Mian Crown,a kind of garment and a kind of accessory.The definition of MianFu is the garment,which was recognized as M ian Crown as the headgear.So,Mian Crown is the essential section in MianFu.This chapter brought forward the opinion about the origin and the entire formation of Mian Crown.And then,the opinion about some d etail content was pointed out,for instance,the explanation on Niu,t he extensive coherence on MianYan and ChongEr.Through the comprehensi ve analysis on the entire formation of Mian Crown,the style of that i n Zhou dynasty is shown with the illustration-figure.Some key viewpoi nts,on the content of evolution on the successive dynasty is describe d:the colour of decoration of the hem of MianYan;the meaning of "be ing held crown" in the literature about jade Heng;the inclined shape of Mian Crown at the Ming Dynasty;the correction on understanding Ji u(the tying Liu to prevent combining circle jades);the specialty of using way between Ying(缨),Hong(纮) and ZianHeDai(天河带),which are ribbons of the hat.This paper showed the uniformly characteristic on the relevant ser ial content of the early MianFu and on the evolution afterward by deta iled investigation.It is that those serial content had been used for practicability,but afterward those made for the ornament only and sym bolize gradually.The difference of Six-Mian would be classified as the quantity of the Twelve Symbols.All of MianFu needs the correspondent decorative p attern.The list of the Twelve Symbols,sun(日),moon(月),star(星辰), mountain(山),dragon(龙),HuaChong(华虫:Golden pheasant),ZongYi(宗彝:sacrificial utensil),Zao(藻:a kind of aquatic grass),Huo(火:fl ame),FenMi(粉米:grains),Fu(黼:white and black axes) and Fu(黻: a black and blue figure,looking like two Chinese characters,me aning "self",drawn against each other) were adopted commonly in Chinese ancient history.This paper showed the reasonable title about the twelve-decorative pattern.That is "WenZhang" It also showed t he extensive research on listing and ranking,the arrangement on the f inished-surface of MianFu and ways exhibiting the Twelve Symbols on ro bes,etc.The Twelve Symbols were classified as the natural descriptio n and the subjective creation,and studied them one by one.The value of MianFu exceeded over much more physical-object itself already,and recognized as the symbol of authority' power and the sig nification of the symbol at some degree added afterward during the tho usands-years traditional evolution.