Core Technology Research Of Male Suit Pattern Structure Shapingbased On Digitization

How to use network platform to realize characteristic clothes making is the core technology of E-MTM, and the top important ones are to achieve digital human body technology for exploring the relationship between digital clothing and human body, develop digital fabric to cope digital fabri with pattern shaping, and reach clothing body balance theory to better digital pattern structure. Based on the marketing situation on the internet and industry status, the study focuses on male suit digital pattern, shaping process and relevant crucial technology. Specific research is as follows:(1) Construction and analysis on multi-dimensional men’s anthropometric database based on digital men’s suit technologyOne of the core apparel technologies is matching the cloth and body. It is very crucial to study digital human based on database technology on network platform and clothing technology. Therefore we measure and oollect men’s data aging from 18 to 60 from East China, South China, Southwest, North China and Central China respectively, and then according to the digital and apparel technology needs abstract multi-dimensional parameters, constructing digital platform by which database can be analysed profoundly and realising the mapping between digital human body and apparel style, paving the way for human body process in E-MTM. The districts’data correlationship from 1D,2D and 3D reveals relation and differnce from different area, seting the stage for digital ready-to-wear.(2) Establishment of shaping technology system for men’s suits in worsted fabricDigital fabric technology is also an important module of men’s suits technology. Men’s wear is shaped by reasonable combination of process and structure, while process shaping includes two parts, that is, sewing and pressing. Based on mechanical properties and basic parameters of wool fabric, this study explores sewing, pressing,etc theoretical system, thus it leads to the construction of a sewing model, pressing model, reducing or expanding model, and process rule respectively. Specific research is as follows. First, select 14 styles of worsted fabric, and 16 parameter indicators in mechanical properties are tested, which at last help to build up mechanical property and basic parameter system of wool fabric. Second, choose 4 kinds of fabric, conduct stitching experiments in same length but different grain directions, evaluated according to criteria ATTCC, and set a stitching rule of equal length. Third, choose 14 kinds of fabric, conduct ironing experiments, analyze it then establish ironing system.. According to the experimental purpose, design a mold for reducing and expanding experiment, set a index system, choose 14 kinds of fabric, conduct experiments, establish pressing model, whose application in the styling process then is discussed.(3) Research on E-MTM-based three-dimensional technology of men’s suit body balance.Complex body surface problems are almost solved by simple structure but complex process in men’s wear, while men’s suit composition technology is based on combination relationship of figure, fabric, style and technology which is used to construct men’s wear body balance theory and explore the pattern composition. On the basis of digital and figurative balance we explore the relationship between body figures and clothing parameters, researching men’s wear body balance theory, which paves the way for technology of 3d-to-2d transformation and digital pattern formation. On one hand, In the part of digital balance we mainly analyze the balance among front waist length, back waist length, front length, back length, front chest width, back chest width, front shoulder slope and back shoulder slope. On the other hand, In the part of figurative balance we develop an equation to find out construction rules appropriate for chest, back and shoulders in clothing becasuse of floating margin.(4) Theory and technology of men’s Suit Pattern Developing based on E-MTMAccording to the relationship between anthropometric data and digital clothing as well as digital fabric technology, on the basis of the clothing body balance theory and the mapping between pattern structure and anthropometric data, we explore how to make digital pattern automatically enerate. However this technology is mainly analyzed from four aspects, that is, the specification, style, pattern and graphic.It mainly consists of such key technologies as follows:1, Develop an equation of styling balance, and construct the mapping between 3D style and 2D structure. Set rules for front floating margin, back floating margin and shoulder treatment.2, Develop an equation of structure balance, and construct the mapping between 1D and 2D parameters to pattern structure.,3D garment style to apparel measurements.3, Construct a digital fabric parameter system, and a structure and process compatibility system based on digital human body and digital fabric.