A Study Of Woolen Costumes And Textiles From Shanpula

This dissertation was mainly based on in-depth analysis of a wide variety of wool costumes and textiles unearthed from Shanpula as core research data, where used to be in the old haunt of Ancient Khotan, in view of the fact the woolen textiles were not only largest in number but also provided the richest variety of weaves and structures and the most beautiful and elaborate designs. It was focused on the ancient Khotan’s typical woolen clothing and daily fabrics types in Han and Jin Dynasties. It was the first specific research in wool fashion culture of ancient Khotan during Han and Jin Dynasties.The wool costumes were mainly related to pullover, bloomers, skirt with bands, belt. The latter varies in texture:there were tabby, twill, false gauze, tapestry, multicolored braids, heavy blankets, pile, carpet and embroidery. The fabric flowering technologies mostly adopted in tapestry, complex gauze, twill oblique, tablet, warp-faced compound weave and embroidery, which included several weft-faced flowering band pass through the whole fabric as such unique co-existence technology. Both plain and twill weave were common structures. And these textiles implied three handloom weaving technologies:there were wide vertical loom, horizontal ground loom and tablet. Among these systems, tapestry or false gauze were partly made in band. Accordingly to the current excavation publication, similar types of wools were recorded along the ancient Silk Route in Xinjiang, many of round city near River Keriya, Qiemo-Zaghunluq, Minfeng-Niya and Yuli-Yingpan group tombs. With the rich extravacation mentioned above, a relevance of content and conduct comparative study was offered in this research.This dissertation focused on the types of pullover or gowns and belt accessories, skirt with tapestry band and pants, costumes matching, textile types, as well as garment and textile technology. The patterns and styles, and historical wools records of the study were also under consideration. Specially, tracing study in different types of woolen tapestry was done.It was finally concluded that:First of all, ancient Khotan people, as well as living nearby, wore functional clothing style and fabric adapting to the environment. The design and functionality of woolen clothing styles were closely related to the need of resisting the harsh environments as the premier design, and then regional and national character different from regionsSecondly, woolen fabric types were directly related to the clothing styles, that was to say, according to the part of the garment, also consulting the function, materials (fabrics and accessories) were closed in different yarn fineness woven into different width, piece length, organization, and patterns of wools. In simple, uses and types of wool fabric were matched with a corresponding relationship. This conclusion could be used to determine unknown purpose unearthed wool fabric pieces, according to the type of fabric to speculate a more reliable use.Furthermore, compared with the silk fabrics, wools, as a textile material, had its own type of yarn characteristics, so the development process of wool textile technology was hardly impacted by silk fabric weaving technology. Wool fiber was short fibers in different types, such as in length and fineness, so the processes of spinning, dyeing and weaving differed in kinds of hair, which had their own technical characteristics. As a result, there were three main types of looms existed in different regions along the Silk Road.Finally, regardless of wool fiber or textile technology, or a clothing style categories and ornamentation patterns, unearthed wool fabrics were mixed with steppe culture and the characteristics of the East meets the West. From time to time, they took in some silk art and technology, and stitch technique from the Central Plains in China.There was still room in this dissertation for discussion which should be available for in-depth. However, some puzzled and uncertain information could not be made clear due to the limitation of the accidental archaeological discoveries. While there were difficulties, this dissertation was stage completed at final for the first time on the Systematic study of Woolen Costumes and Textiles from Shanpula. Main features of a variety of clothing and fabric in ancient Khotan, as well as art, culture and history, were interpreted as possible as they could be. Some innovative ideas and methods were found out in studying excavated woolen clothing and fabrics. Through this systematic study, fabulous woolen fabrics in ancient Khotan, as well as in the regions surrounding were interpreted in system and local people’s beautiful dress were restored. All was done for filling in the blank history of textile and costume.