Study On Shearing Property Of Woven Fabric

Fabric shearing property is the crucial factor that influences fabric's hand values and garment formability, it has a close relation with the factors such as fiber, yarn and fabric structures.The aim in this paper is to predict fabric shearing properties and hand values by researching the relationships between shearing properties and structural parameters of yarn and fabric, static shearing properties and dynamic shearing properties, shearing properties and extension properties in 45° bias direction of fabric,etc. The conclusions can be of help in designing the fabric shearing property scientifically, which will improve hand values, comfortability and space formability of fabrics.The main contents and conclusions are listed as follows, Numerous representative samples of fabric have been collected. Measuring or testing the parameters of yarn and fabric structures and doing the calculation if necessary; Testing the values of shearing rigidity, shearing hysteresis and other properties of these samples using KES-FB1 system.On the basis of numerous experimental data, a equation between the rate of friction change and the contact area of yarns which has been amended according to different weave constructions has been obtained by analyzing the relationship between the rate of friction change and structural factors,in which the rate of friction change is a unquantifiable parameter in the theoretical equation of shearing rigidity that has been gained before.Combining the theoretical equation, the fabric shearing rigidity can be predicted with good accuracy that has been validated by another set of worstedfabrics.A theoretical equation between fabric shearing hysteresis and fabric structures, the shearing hysteresis of every single interlacing point has been established. The shearing hysteresis of a single interlacing point is also determined by yarn and fabric structures,and the experimental equation between the shearing hysteresis of single interlacing point and structural parameters can be deduced on the basis of numerous experimental data using a step-wise regression method, then a prediction equation for the fabric shearing hysteresis can be gained. Another set of worsted fabrics were collected to evaluate the accuracy of the equation, the result shows that the equation can give a good prediction for the fabric shearing hysteresis.To know about the shearing fatigue-proof property of fabric, the fatigue shearing test has been done on KES-FB1 apparatus, then the static shearing properties and three kinds of dynamic shearing properties at 5,20 and 50 times repetition of shearing deformation respectively were compared. The results show that dynamic shearing rigidity is smaller than static rigidity,and the shearing rigidity decrease with the increase of the times of repetition,but the velocity of decreasing is becoming less and less. The values of dynamic shearing hysteresis are all bigger than that of static shearing hysteresis.It is known that the fabric shearing properties and extension properties in 45° bias direction of fabric are both mainly caused by the mechanical interaction of warp and weft yarns,and related with each other closely. The two kinds of deformation curves were tested on KES-FB, and these two properties were compared.As a new kind of elastic polyester fibre, PTT can be used to explore elastic fabrics to meet the demand of people. To find out thecharacteristics of hand values of PTT/Wool blended fabric, a comparative study on the basic mechanical properties at low force and hand values such as stiffness, fullness and smoothness of PTT/Wool and PET/Wool blended fabrics was done, the similarities and differences about the hand values of these two kinds of fabrics has been obtained.