Study On Influence Of Fabric Properties On The Drop-size Of Shirt-collar

With the development of textile industry technology, the influence of fabric properties on the development of fashion design, structure, techniques and manufacture of garment become more important. The influence of fabric properties on fashion design, manufacture of garment become the emphases which garment enterprise and professionals have to study. The relationship between fabric properties and garment structure is the main point of this study, and shirt collar which is the classic collar is chosen. The shirt collars are made by different kinds of fabric, and then they are tested by wearing on the dress form. The quantitative relationship between fabric properties and drop-size of shirt collar is studied in particular with a series of experiments.The relationship between fabric properties and clothing modeling, structure and manufacturing technique is expounded. And the knowledge of the fabric mechanical property and shirt collar pattern designing is elaborated. According to the drop-size which is the important parameter of the shirt collar pattern design, the influence of fabric mechanical properties on drop-size of shirt collar studied and analyzed. The study is made up of two experiments. 10 kinds of fabrics are chosen for the No.1 experiment. First of all, sixteen mechanical properties are tested by KES-FB system. The 4 uppermost factors are educed from the sixteen mechanical properties by principal component analysis with SAS software. The four variables are tensile work (WT), tensile recovery (RT), compressive resiliency (RC), and weight per unit area (W) of the fabric mechanical properties. Secondly, the shirt collars are made by this ten kinds of fabric. The length of the collar stand is 3cm, and the width of collar is 4cm. The suitable drop-size is found each collar which is made of different kinds of fabric. Then some quantitative relationship is found , and the equation of WT( x1 ),RT( x 2),RC( x 3),W( x 4)and y is as follows: y =-51.63988+2.09439 x1 +0.41879 x 2+1.69233 x 3-0.00364 x1 2+0.00602 x32+0.02280 x1 x2-0.09135 x1 x3-0.01875 x 2x3For No.2 experiment, three kinds of shirt collar are made with the 10 kinds of fabric which is the same as what used for No.1 experiment. The length of collar stand is 3cm, the width of collar is 4cm, 5cm, 6cm, and the difference of top collar and collar stand width is 1cm, 2cm, 3cm. The suitable drop-size is found each collar which is made of different kinds of fabric. The quantitative relationship is presented by the regression analysis of WT,RT,,RC,W and the drop-size. The equation of WT( x1 ),RT( x 2),RC( x 3),W( x 4), h( x 5)and y is as follows: y =-1.02900+0.61259 x1 -0.84467 x 4+1.79378 x 5-0.02887 x1 2-0.00274 x1x3+0.02688 x1 x4-0.01070 x1 x5+0.01172 x 2x4-0.00761 x 2x5-0.03924 x 4x5The conclusion of this study is not only propitious to improving parameterization of CAD, but also offer the advising when coordinating the relationship between the drop-size and the fabric, in order to raise productivity effect.