Research On The Influence Of Garment Construction Parameters On The Silhouette Of The Basic X-line Style Jacket

Garment silhouette design is the the first step of fashion design, which would determine theoverall impression of the garment style, and is an important point of garment aesthetic design andfashion evolution. Beautiful garment silhouette could help show the beautiful shape and make upthe disadvantages of body. The styling features of X-line silhouette are slightly wider shoulder,tight waist and natural hip line, which is widely used in women’s daily dress as it could help bringout women’s elegant shape. Garment pattern design is the link process from fashion design togarment making, which plays a decisive role in garment silhouette. The main parts resulting togarment silhouette changing include shoulder, waist, hip and bottom, and the constructionconstituents of pattern such as the size of each part and the amount of ease, would significantlyaffect the garment silhouette.In the paper, the basic X-line style jacket was selected as object of the study, and basic X-linestyle jackets with different dart and vertical line setting were made. The AutoCAD software wasused to gain the girth cross sections and the silhouette parameters. The SPSS software was used tomake correlation and regression analysis about the construction parameters and silhouetteparameters extracted. Then the influence of the construction parameters on the silhouette of thebasic X-line jackets was studied, and the beauty of the garment silhouette was evaluated.First, the influence of the waist dart amount on the silhouette of the basic X-line jackets wasstudied. It was indicated that, the amount of the waist dart could affect the width and thickness ofthe girth cross sections both for the three-piece and four-piece tailored jackets, and then affectedthe silhouette of the body section furthermore. When the waist dart amount decreased, thethickness of the bust and hip increased, the width of the hip decreased; When the waist dart amount increased, the thickness of the bust and hip decreased, the width of the hip increased;When the waist dart amount was moderate, the width of the bust was biggest.Second, the influence of the waist dart location on the silhouette of the basic X-line jacketswas studied. It was indicated that, When the girths of the bust, waist and hip were fixed，thechanging rules of the width of the bust and hip were consistent in the three-piece and four-piecetailored jackets, that was, when the dart location neared the center of the front and back, the widthof the waist and hip were smaller; when the dart location neared the side, the width of the bust andhip were bigger. There were differences between the changing rules of the thickness of the bust,the width and thickness of the waist, the thickness of the hip in the three-piece and four-piecetailored jackets.Third, the correlation between the construction parameters and the silhouette parameters wererevealed. It was indicated that, the amount and the location of the side front dart and the side backdart were very important construction parameters in the three-piece tailored jacket styling; theamount of the side dart, the location of the side dart and the front dart were very importantconstruction parameters in the four-piece tailored jacket styling, and the relational models of theconstruction parameters and the silhouette parameters were established for both three-piece andfour-piece tailored jackets.Fourth, the aesthetics of the basic X-line jacket silhouette was evaluated. The results showedthat with the same waist dart location, the garments with moderate dart amount were mostbeautiful, which had a moderate X-line shape in front sight. When the girths of the bust, waist, hipwere fixed, in the three-piece tailored jackets, those with darts near the center of the front andback were most beautiful, with not obvious X-line shape in front sight and distinct X-line shape inside sight. In the four-piece tailored jackets, those with darts in the middle position were mostbeautiful, with moderate X-line shape in front and side sight. The significance of X-line shape wasan important influence factor of the aesthetics of X-line silhouette, but those with the most distinctX-line shape were not always the most beautiful or worst one, and the four-piece tailored jacketswould be more beautiful than three-piece with the same dart amount.