Study And Improvement On The Irritation Of Grass Cloth Garment

Grass cloth is woven from ramie linen. Because of linen is often used in clothing,in summer cool comfortable, commonly known as grass cloth again. Grass cloth afterthe unique traditional manual craft grade yarn, textile processing and become, is atraditional Chinese clothing fabric, is used to make clothes since the xia, deep robeand crown, towels, clothing, hats. Rong Chang grass cloth production techniques, loadgrass cloth production techniques in2008was listed as state-level non-materialcultural heritage list.Grass cloth thereafter began to large-scale production, and try tochange the single structure, it is not just for clothes, it is used for bags, furnitureaccessories, round fan items such as raw materials.However, due to the grass cloth fiber stiffness big, our country grass clothclothing rough feel, easy cause strong tickling feeling in wear process, greatly reducesthe taking of grass cloth garment tactile comfort, at the present stage can only givepriority to with export greige cloth. Therefore, study and improve grass cloth garmenttickling feeling, improve the market competitiveness of grass cloth garment in ourcountry, has become an urgent problem to be solved.This paper based on linen yarn and its fabric property research, obtained theaccurate and objective evaluation index of grass cloth tickling feeling; Explore theclothing collar structure of the relationship between design and grass cloth garmenttickling feeling; And focus on exploring the use of chemical method and biologicalmethod processing linen yarn and fabric, thus improving grass cloth garment ticklingfeeling.This paper introduced the three specific aspects of the research and analysis, andresearch conclusion:1.First of all, the influence factors of grass cloth tickling feeling (including theproperties of the surface of the yarn hairiness, yarn properties and fabric) on theobjective measurement and analysis, secondly adopted subjective wear experimentmethod to evaluate the tickling feeling grass cloth; Finally, through the SPSS dataanalysis to further study the relationship between these factors and grass cloth tickling feeling, to get the evaluation index of grass cloth tickling feeling.Study shows that two methods through the objective and subjective separately ingrass cloth tickling feeling is evaluated and analyzed, finally found harmful totalpercentage of the total number of hairiness, yarn hairiness of the initial modulus andhighly correlated to the grass cloth tickling feeling value, they can be used to evaluategrass cloth tickling feeling: Tickling feeling of value=0.044+0.158The total numberof harmful hairiness percentage accounted for the total number of hairiness+0.015The initial modulus of yarn.2.From the perspective of collar structure design, the main clothing category bychanging the grass cloth shirt collar type and structure parameters, and the four valuesas the only index, the optimization of grass cloth shirt class clothing suitable type andstructure parameters.Research has shown that to reduce the number of grass cloth shirt costumestickling feeling, should try to choose introversive type collar and lapel the two typesof collar. The introversive type collar structure, after when the collar height2.5cm,case become warped measuring1.5cm, grass cloth shirt tickling feeling less clothes.In the lapel structure, when straight take3cm in size, led by took the3cm high, grasscloth shirt tickling feeling less clothes.3.Comparing cellulase and alkaline/urea both tickling feeling the advantages andshortcomings of improved method, through to cellulase finishing, alkali grass clothyarn/urea slack finishing at low temperature, and try to combine the two methods toarrange, so as to explore and develop effective grass cloth anti tickling sorting method.Research shows that:(1) The cellulase finishing grass cloth yarn in a certain extent, improve thehandle, but after finishing grass cloth yarn breaking strength serious losses, theoptimized cellulase finishing process for: PH value of5.5, the temperature was60℃,enzyme concentration was3%, the time of90min, bath ratio of1:20; Grass clothafter alkali/urea slack finishing yarn, yarn initial mold quantity is small, the ticklingfeeling to reduce; In addition, the yarn breaking strength changed little, yarn breakingelongation was significantly improved. After optimization of alkali/urea finishingprocess for: NaOH concentration of150g/L, the urea concentration of20g/L, theexperimental temperature of35℃Urea-cellulose enzyme joint.(2) Alkali/linen yarn and fabric, although the loss of yarn breaking strength,damage the fabric pilling performance, but its to a great extent improve the grass cloth tickling feeling, after processing, grass cloth yarn breaking elongation wassignificantly improved, the permeability and hygroscopicity of the fabric has beenimproved significantly. Will eventually be combined alkali/urea-cellulase finishingmethod as the optimal methods of grass cloth anti tickling.The research results of this paper lay the foundations for the standard ofevaluation criteria for quality of grass cloth, and for the improvement of the grasscloth garment tickling feeling have provided the certain theory basis and practicebasis.