Research Of Influencing Factors On Lifestyle Sportswear Sewing Quality

With the demand of the sewing quality has improved, it was necessary to study the influencing factors and their relationship. Choosing the lifestyle sportswear as object, the thesis studied these factors and their relationship from the perspective of fabrics properties and sewing conditions. Besides, the inside and outside evaluations, orthogonal designs as well as osculating value method were used to evaluate the sewing quality comprehensively. The results were as follows:(1) Select 6 kinds of fabrics, such as cotton, polyester, cotton/polyester, polyamide, cotton/polyamide, and polyester/polyamide, which were usually used on lifestyle sportswear. Firstly, the thesis used related instruments to test the fabrics properties. The principal component analysis was adopted to analyze the main properties of these fabrics. Then the mechanical property of woven and weft under low stress could be express by 4 independent components. Woven components include shearing, friction, compress and tensile components. Weft components include thickness, tensile, and friction components. The analysis of fabrics components provides several theory references for sportswear fabric choosing and testing.(2) Use the same craft to sew the 6 kinds of fabric, and adopt subjective and objective method to evaluate the sewing quality. Then the Pearson relation was used to analyze the relationship between the fabric properties and sewing quality. The study showed: among the low-stress mechanical properties, the tensile, bend, shearing, thickness and gram weight in woven, as well the bend and shearing properties in weft play an important role in shrinkage. Besides, the tensile mechanical properties affect the shrinkage significantly. The closer the tensile properties between fabric and sewing thread are, the higher the sewing efficiency is.(3) The thesis adapt orthogonal design and extremism to get the influence degree of each factor in the sewing quality inside and outside: when woven sewing, the influence of all factors on shrinkage was: fabrics> pitch> sewing thread> machine needles; when weft sewing, the influence of all factors on shrinkage was: pitch> sewing> fabric> needle. When woven sewing, the effect of all factors on seam strength was: fabrics> pitch> sewing thread> machine needles; when weft sewing, the effect of all factors on seam strength was: pitch> sewing> fabric> needle.(4) The use of osculating value method can evaluate the outside and inside quality which produced by fabric and sewing condition comprehensively. The results were as follows: when woven sewing, the best technique was: 1#cotton, 20S/2 thread, 13-pin/3cm gauge, 16#needle. When weft sewing, the best technique was: 1#cotton, 40S/2 thread, 11-pin/3cm gauge, 14# needle.