| PTT shape memory fabric is made by polytrimethylene terephthalate filaments, it is a new kind of light thin and high density fabric, and it has outstanding clothing plasticity and easy care properties. In this paper, low temperature dynamic mechanical property, garments' styling property, garments' style discrimination and scratch phenomenon of this kind of fabric were investigated, what's more, correlate properties study and mechanism analysis were added and completed in order to provide technical support to the development of PTT shape memory fabric.Main research contents and conclusions are as follows: 1. About low temperature dynamic mechanical property of PTT shape memory fabricDynamic mechanical thermal analysis was used to analyse low temperature dynamic mechanical properties of filament, fabric and filament in the fabric of PTT shape memory fabric and contrast samples of PET imitate shape memory fabric and Nylon fabric, and then influence of processing technology on low temperature dynamic mechanical property of filament was discussed. It was found that,(1) Modulus of elasticity of PTT filament was placed in the middle, of PET filament was big and of Nylon filament was small. As the temperature reducing, they were all increasing, and the increase amplitude of PET filament was big. Low temperature transition peak of them were from-65 to -55℃, from -50 to -40℃and from -40 to -30℃respectively.(2) Modulus of elasticity in warp and weft direction of PTT shape memory fabric were small, they showed small range increased as the temperature reducing, low temperature transition peak in warp and weft direction were from -30 to -20℃and from -35 to -25℃respectively. Modulus of elasticity in warp and weft direction of PET imitate shape memory fabric and Nylon fabric were bigger, they showed relatively large range increased as the temperature reducing, low temperature transition peak in warp and weft direction of PET imitate shape memory fabric were from -35 to-25℃and from -30 to-10℃respectively, of Nylon fabric were from -15 to -5℃and from -55 to-45℃respectively.(3) Modulus of elasticity of PTT shape memory fabric's weft was a little smaller than PTT filament, that's to say, weft turn into softer after weaving stress of processing technology. Low temperature transition peak of weft and PTT filament were from -35 to -25℃and from -65 to-55℃respectively, which showed migration about 30℃, moreover low temperature transition peak of weft was higher than PTT filament.Modulus of elasticity of PET imitate shape memory fabric's warp and weft were smaller than PET filament, that's to say, warp and weft turn into softer after weaving stress of processing technology. Low temperature transition peak of warp, weft and PET filament were from -25 to-15℃,-40 to -30℃and from -50 to -40℃respectively, which showed migration about 25℃and 10℃, moreover low temperature transition peak of warp and weft were higher than PET filament.Modulus of elasticity of Nylon fabric's warp and weft were bigger than Nylon filament, that's to say, warp and weft turn into harder after weaving stress of processing technology. Low temperature transition peak of warp, weft and Nylon filament were from -30 to -20℃,-35 to-25℃and from -40 to -30℃respectively, which showed migration about 10℃and 5℃, moreover low temperature transition peak of warp and weft were lower than Nylon filament.(4) In the range of test temperature, modulus of elasticity of PTT weft was smaller than filament before weaving, and it was also the smallest among those three fabrics; modulus of elasticity of PET weft was smaller than filament before weaving, but it was the biggest among those three fabrics; modulus of elasticity of Nylon weft was bigger after weaving stress of processing technology, and it was placed in the middle among those three fabrics. After weaving, differences of low temperature transition peak of weft among those three fabrics became small, which were all about -30℃. What's more, differences of the height of low temperature transition peak among those three fabrics were not obvious.2. About garments' styling property of PTT shape memory fabricGarments' styling property contrast studies about PTT shape memory fabric and contrast samples of PTT/PET semi-shape memory fabric, PET imitate shape memory fabric and Nylon fabric were unfolded from the view of garments'styling elements such as radian plasticity. non-iron pleat plasticity and force stimulating crease recovery, then the influences of structural parameters on garments'styling property were analysed. It was found that,(1) Radian plasticity average height in warp, weft and 45°direction of PTT shape memory fabric and contrast samples of PTT/PET semi-shape memory fabric, PET imitate shape memory fabric and Nylon fabric were above 12mm,9 to 11mm,9 to 11mm and 4 to 5.5mm respectively, the radian plasticity effect of PTT shape memory fabric was excellent, of PTT/PET semi-shape memory fabric and PET imitate shape memory fabric were preferably, of Nylon fabric was not obvious.(2) Non-iron pleat retention rate of those fabrics were more or less the same, they were all in the range of 50% to 60%, non-iron pleat retention rate of PTT shape memory fabric and contrast samples of PTT/PET semi-shape memory fabric, PET imitate shape memory fabric and Nylon fabric were 60.6%,51.9%,57.3% and 58.9% respectively, they were all easily to model into pleat.(3) After low temperature imitate iron force stimulating, PTT shape memory fabric and PTT/PET semi-shape memory fabric were basic reply to flatten state, crease recovery rate were above 80%, reached non-iron effect. Crease recovery rate of PET imitate shape memory fabric was also relative high which was about 75%, of Nylon fabric was relative low which was about 60%, that's to say, Nylon filament wasn't sensitive about low temperature imitate iron force stimulating.3. About garments' style discrimination of PTT shape memory fabricKES-F tester and related instruments were used to measure fabric basic performance index, three group of discriminant which was about basic garment type suitable for fabric was also used to discriminate PTT shape memory fabric and several kinds of conventional fabric. It was found that,(1) PTT shape memory fabric, PTT/PET semi-shape memory fabric and PET imitate shape memory fabric were suitable for loose and stiff smooth type, besides individual Nylon fabric were suitable between loose and stiff smooth type and overhang type or between loose and stiff smooth type and uniform type, most of them were also suitable for loose and stiff smooth type.(2) Bending lag 2HB, shearing rigidity G, shearing hysteresis 2HG and 2HG5 of PTT shape memory fabric, PTT/PET semi-shape memory fabric and PET imitate shape memory fabric were obvious bigger than Nylon fabric and cotton fabric. (3) By comparison, among basic mechanics index, bending and shearing performance had great influence to garments' style discrimination.4. About scratch phenomenon of PTT shape memory fabricScanning electron microscope and high optical microscope were used to observe the fabric surface of PTT shape memory fabric and contrast samples of PET imitate shape memory fabric and Nylon fabric under appropriate scratch force about 300g (3N) and different scratch conditions such as body nail, key and blade. It was found that after exerting body nail scratch force, PTT shape memory fabric produced white striation, what's more, under the condition of the same scratch condition and different fabrics, scratch resistance property of Nylon fabric was good, of PTT shape memory fabric took second place, and of PET imitate shape memory fabric was slightly worse. |
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