Study On Standard Basic Pattern Of Women's Fit-Trousers

With the development of society, the apparel market has changed tremendously during the past years, the consumption of trousers for more and more young women no longer remain at the level of satisfying the basic needs of survival, but more oriented towards the consumer demand on psychological and physical comfort, which resulted in a higher require in the research on the structure design of trousers. This paper is based on the women's trousers market research, relying on the static body shape, employing the combined research method of the draping and the drafting, through experimental design using the equational and orthogonal method, an explorative research is conducted on the crotch part of women's fit-trousers, from which the following research results are gained:First, from an investigation of consumer demand for pantsuits through 200 young females of 18-35 years old in Shanghai, it is learned that females in this age group are more likely to choose style of close-fitting, hip-huggers in dressing manner. When purchase they would pay more attention to the esthetic property in design and comfort in wearing, and most of them indicate that the importance of pantsuits is mainly focused on the crotch part. In the living habits, the postures that women in this age group often keep include:walking around, crossing their legs, sitting still. The results mentioned above establish a theory base for the crotch research of women's pants and the selection of subjective evaluation motion.Second, through frequency analysis of body measurement data for young women in Shanghai, found that the waist circumference of 18-35 years old women are concentrated in the 60cm-75cm, hip circumference are concentrated in the 80cm-100cm, and the sizes on all parts of the measurements showed a normal distribution. By means of descriptive analysis, drew a conclusion that the intermediate sizes of the measuring samples are height of 160.1cm, waist circumference of 68.0cm, hip circumference of 90.1cm and waist-to-hip ratio of 22.1cm, which are almost close with the intermediate of 160/84A in the national standard, In addition, this paper extracted three main factors which can reflect the size characteristics of the lower body. The three main factors are respectively the length factor, circumference factor and width factor.Third, approach of combining the draping and the drafting was applied to make detailed research on the crutch structure in fit-trousers, it can be obtained that the least minimum value for the front crutch width is 2.8 cm. Besides, it proved that decrease of front crutch width has a crucial impact on the slope of back crotch Seam and the jut-out through variance analysis. Regression equation between the slope of back crotch Seam and the jut-out in fit-trouser can be established by means of regression analysis, which is the-jut - out=Hb/2sinθ(θ= the slope of back Seam)Fourth, with analysis of mathematical model of front crotch, the function relation between|△front crotch width| and|△crotch depth| was obtained, which was a curvilinear circle with (α,-b) as center and (?)a2+b2 as radius. Through the equational experiment with as variable, the corresponding value of |△crotch-depth| and unary linear functions between both were obtained. The unary linear function is:Acrotch-depth|=0.5x|△front-crotch-width|+0.2.By the same token, unary linear functions between|△crotch - depth|and |△back-crotch-width|were gained:|△back-crotch|= width|= 1.2×|△crotch-depth|-0.1.Fifth, base on the above regression equations, the equational method was adopted to determine the experimental levels of the front crotch width 2.8 cm,3 cm,3.2 cm and the angle which were 12°,15°,18°. Moreover, taking the features of experimental fabrics into consideration, the paper conducted the experiment for best values of angle, crotch width and crotch depth by orthogonal method. Finally, through subjective comfort evaluations obtained the optimum angle values was 15°, and the optimum values of the front crotch width was 3 cm, which were exclusively designed for the young women with intermediate body type.In this paper, an explorative research is conducted on the crotch part of women's fit-trousers based on the Dress problem. The paper conducted a quantitative research on the slope of back crotch Seam and the jut-out by the unprecedented application of equational method, and established a scientific, effective regression equation. Besides, with the establishment of a geometric model, this paper also obtained a linear relationship between crotch width and crotch depth through a trigonometric function analysis. Based on above achievements, by means of orthogonal method, the paper gained the Optimum values of the slope of back crotch Seam and front crutch width. Therefore, the paper offers reference for structure design of women trousers and has certain practical meaning in production.