| With the progress of the society and the improvement of living standards, more and more people consider the elasticity of fabric as a factor when buying. When the fabric’s extensibility is too low, people will feel uncomfortable; If it takes great force to stretch the fabrics, people also feel uncomfortable. In order to solve these problems, it’s necessary for us to study all kinds of elastic fibers,elastic yarns, properties of elastic fabrics. Elastic fabrics are classfied mainly according to the stretch rate of the fabric,not on the basis of elastic resilience rate and the size of force when the fabric was streched. However,they both affect wearing comfort, so it is necessary to include elastic resilience rate and retraction force when classfying elastic fabrics.Different properties of crruent elastic yarns and filaments were studied to ensure the development of elastic woven fabrics.Furthemore24kinds of fabrics were woven with various weft yarn configurations and they were also finished.The differences of structures finished fabrics were discussed and tensile properties and tensile propertis,air permerbility,drapability,and crease resilience were tested.Through the analysis of the fabric’s elastic properties, and put forward the new criteria for the classification of elastic fabrics, provide a amount of technical information for the weaving of the soft elastic woven fabrics. This topic through the research, the following conclusions are drawn:1ã€As for yarn’s breaking strength, pure polyester filament, polyester/spandex filament and polyester/MS rank in the1st place while cotton yarn and cotton/spandex core spun yarn rank in the3rd place. Bi-component composite filament and PTT filaments’breaking strengths are in the2nd place. Processing T400with interlacing technique will affect filament’s property. If PTT is processed under low elongation, filament’s properties won’t be affected considerably. The influence will be great if the process happens under under high elongation. Processing PTT/PET with interlacing technique can combine both of the fibers’advantages and in comparison with PET, it will promote the elongation at break, but the breaking strength will be decreased accordingly.2ã€As far as fabric’s breaking strength is concerned, polyester woven fabric is supremer than bi-component woven fabric and PTT woven fabric is in the3rd place. As for elongation at break, PTT woven fabric is the frist place and bi-component woven fabric ranks2nd. Polyester woven fabric’s elongation at break is no better than bi-component woven fabric. Especially, cotton fabric ranks last in both breaking strength and elongation at break. When elongation at break is no more than20%, the interlacing processing will make a great difference to T400woven fabric’s tenacity property and won’t affect PTT woven fabric’s tenacity property. 3ã€By comparing the properties between fabrics with different weft, conclusion is as follows: bi-component filament woven fabric’s tenacity is the best while its air permeability is worse. PTT woven fabric ranks2nd in both tenacity and air permeability. Tenacity of woven fabric that contains spendax and MS is worse than that of the former ones.However,its air permeability is better than the former ones. As for drape coefficient and flexural rigidity, the difference among the whole fabrics is not obvious.4ã€When the elongation is10%and20%, the fabircs with the weft combination of polyester MS and PTT or CM800, compared to PTT fabrics and CM800fabric, not only increasing the breadth of the finished product, still can obtain higher elastic resilience rate, and obtain the elastic restoring force lower than the PTT fabrics;the fabircs the weft combination of polyester ammonia and PTT or T400, also can reduce the PTT fabric’s elastic restoring force at this elongation; And the fabrics the weft combination of polyester ammonia and cotton ammonia core-spun yarn,the fabric’s elastic resilience rate is lower than others.5ã€The fabirc with two kinds of weft could combine it’s tensile properties and air permeability; The difference between fabric’s drapability and bending properties is not evident, but the fabric with cotton polyester ammonia and ammonia combined has poor drapability and bending properties relatively;the fabric with contains polyester MS in the weft combination has good elastic resilience, with PTT polyester ammonia or T400is in second place, with cotton ammonia core-spun yarn is in the last place.6ã€The content of PTT in the fabrics influences the tensile properties of the fabrics, with the increase of the content of PTT,the fabric’s elongation at break is increased, the breaking strength is reduced,the differences of the drape coefficient,and the bending resistance of weft and the crease resilience angle of the fabric is not evident. When the elongation was10%or20%,with25%PTT in the fabirc could improve the fabirc’selastic properties; add MS fiber or ammonia fiber in the fabric in which the PTT content is50%, can further improve the fabric’sproperties.7ã€The retraction force of fabric when the elongation is at10%and20%has significant correlation. According to elastic property of fabrics at the constant elongation,this thesis proposes new criteria for the classification of elastic fabric. Judhing by the elastic recovery rate, the fabric can be divided into high, medium, low stretch fabric; On the basis of the retraction force, the fabric can be divided into hard, medium and soft fabric. And the fabric in this thisis are classified to provide some technical data for the development of soft elastic woven fabrics. |