| With the improvement of living standards, basic functions of textiles are no longer meet the needs of human being. Textile industry is in the direction of functionality and health-care. Because aromatic textile not only has the fragrant property but also is a great media of aromatherapy, so it has great commercial potentialities. The current method of aromatic finishing is to prepare essence microcapsules and then coat print them onto the fabrics. But the condition of high temperature during the curing procedure of printing adhesives always makes the essence evaporate, and causes aromatic textiles’ durability loss as well as air pollution in the production department.UV curable coating is a technology that unsaturated resin can be cured to form crosslinked films on substrates just under the UV lights. So in this case, most of essence can be retained within the microcapsules, and the durability of flavor will be improved. Therefore, UV-CC technology was used in this paper for adhering essence microcapsules with cotton fabrics, in order to find a low temperature method for finishing the durable aromatic textiles. Besides, this paper also discussed the feasibility of room temperature curing adhesives used in cotton aromatic finishing. The washing durability, relative hand value and some other physical properties of aromatic textiles are tested in this paper. In addition, smell is an invisible substance that is hard to describe, until now there’s no comprehensive way to evaluate the smell. So this paper also research different methods to find a relatively associated and convenient way for smell assessment. This thesis concludes as followings:1. To measure the smell of aromatic fabrics, UV spectrophotometer method is at a low applicability because the testing essence should have the significant absorption peak around the instrument’s wavelength. GC-MS method can accurately measure all the volatile content remaining on the textile, so it’s practicable and associated with human’s ture feeling. Using ATR-FTIR method will not break the sample and is quickly and easily, but it’s only a semi-quantitatively way to evaluate the changing trends of remaining essence through the intensity of peak. Although subjective method has large errors relatively,it’s still a good reference to other instrument means because it has actual sensory experience closest to the consumers.2. Using waterborne polyurethane acrylic acid ester 4681 and 4220 as UV resin in the UV aromatic finishing system can obtain the better washing durability than the traditional coat printing method. And through the SEM we can see the UV cured film spreading and curing evenly on each fiber,while the coat printing film is lumpy. As the 4681 resin has lower resistance to yellow changing, 6502 resin is more suitable in this UV aromatic finishing system. Experiments show that when the concentration of 6502 is 40%, the essence microcapsules can be fixed on fabric completely.3. In this UV aromatic finishing system, photoinitiators’ finishing effects are 2959>500>1173, but the diversity between 2959 and 500 is minute. Considering the costs, 500 is better. When the concentration of 500 is lower than 1.5%, washing durability increases by the concentration increasing; when the dosage of 500 higher than 1.5%, concentration has no obviously influences. The wetting contact angle between finishing liquor and cotton fabric is smaller, the uniformity of UV cured film is better, then the washing durability is better. Experiments show that when adding wetting dispersant into the system,wetting contact angles are Tween-80 > Peregal O > Penetrant T. What’s more,when concentration of Penetrant T is higher than 4%, washing durability dosen’t increase by the concentration increasing anymore. The types of synthetic thickeners don’t affect the washable times of aromatic, but influence the loss rate of essence. To this UV aromatic system, the ability to thicken is Huntsman polyurethane acrylic thickener > KG-201 > CN-WW. Considering the loss rate of essence during washing, KG-201 are more suitable to the system.4. Amino silicone oil TS-701 can significantly improve the relative hand value of aromatic textiles as well as washing durability. When it’s concentration is lower than 16%, concentration changing has no effect on washing durability. But when the dosage of TS-701 reaches 16%, aromatic textiles’ washing durability plunges.5. To this UV aromatic finishing system, the impact of light conditions,base distance > Wattage = illumination time. Through SEM we can see that light conditions only influence UV-curing reaction itself, but make no difference to the uniformity of UV cured film on textiles’ surface.6. It was found that the uniformity of cured film on the fabrics influences the wash durability of aromatic textiles a lot. The cured film on the fiber surface is more even and thick in the certain range,the better adhesion between microcapsules and cotton,and the textile will have the good performance in washing tests. But if the cured film’s thickness beyond a certain level, it will make the washing durability decrease.7. When the water based UV coat curing aromatic finishing system contains 40% of 6502 resin, 1.5% of 500, about 6% of KG-201, 4% of TS-701 and Penetrant T, and under the light conditions of 10 cm base distance, 1000 W, 6 min, the best washing durability aromatic textiles can be achieved. After 24 times of washing, we can still detect the essence on the fabrics, when aromatic textiles finished by the traditional coat printing method can only bear 7 times of washing.8. Experiments show that room temperature curable adhesive 6008 can achieve fixation between cotton fabric and melamine resin substrate(which is common used in preparing microcapsules). When the formula is 5% of 6008, 4% of Penetrant T, and about 6% of KG-201, we can prepare the aromatic textiles that can bear 15 times of washing and the flavor can last more than 28 weeks without washing. The handfeel is good as well. But room temperature curing adhesive will cause printing screen blockage, which limits its practical application. |
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