| The grottoes of Mogaoku located in Dunhuang are world-famous heritages of Buddhist art and historical culture. This thesis takes silk textiles in the northern grottoes of Mogaoku from Tangut to Yuan Dynasty as the object of the research. And it studies weaves, patterns, usage and two specials of the silk fabrics systematically by using five research methods as historical documents survey, taxonomy, comparison and contrast, image analysis and restoring. The main purpose is to ascertain the academic research value of the silk textiles from the northern grottoes, and to complete the study of costumes and silk art on Tangut and Yuan Dynasty. Most significantly, it starts the study of silk textiles excavated from the northern grottoes of Mogaoku.The silk textiles as research objects cover comprehensive categories. According to processing crafts, this thesis divides all the textiles into three main categories, as woven and braided fabrics, print and paint, embroidery. Each category has its own subdivisions and it has more detailed expositions in Chapter Ⅱ. All the classifications are strictly subjected to the excavated silk textiles, thus it corrects the misclassification in the previous archaeological report.Another major focus of the contents is the study of silk patterns. Most of the silk fabrics have the typical appearance of Yuan Dynasty’s style feature. After inducing all kinds of the patterns displayed on the surface of silk textiles found in the northern grottoes, there is a comparison and contrast between them and other resemblant patterns of silk or frescoes which have also been identified belong to Yuan Dynasty. It uses image analysis method to verify the prototypes of two different fragmentary birds’ patterns by tracing the line. It also discusses the relationship between a unit of pattern of a piece of red twill damask and the pattern of Manchijiao.The usage ways of silk excavated in the northern grottoes can be conclude into two major categories. One is to use in Buddhist rituals, and other way is to use in daily life. In the first section it discusses the structure of two silk banners and makes a contrast analysis with the standard shape of a banner. It researches the historical background of how silk fabric becoming the cover of sutras, and concludes the formal shape of a silk sutras cover. Moreover, it refers to the figures of Buddha in paintings on gauze and a probable usage of a peach-shaped silk accessory. In another section of daily life silk textiles, it explains the reason why it was the plain weave silk could be used to replace paper to write on. And it raises a conjecture that the biggest silk fabric excavated in northern grottoes, a piece of red twill damask, may be apparel fabric to make a robe with broad sleeves. The last significant conclusion of this section is to demonstrate an accessory to be a sachet according to its structure.The last chapter of the thesis is a study of two specials. In the first special, it makes a thorough analysis of the material and structure of a silk accessory numbered B163:10, then renames it as sachet with oxalic knots. The core of this section is to finish the restoring work of the whole sachet.Since a variety of silk textiles referred in this thesis added with gold threads or foils really dazzle the eyes, the second special is an analysis on gold-woven and gold-printed. It discusses the historical background and objective causes on the phenomenon of the gold-worship in Yuan Dynasty. Then it exposits the technological processes that making gold threads and gold printing. Moreover, it sets up a statistical chart on all the gold-woven and gold-printed silk textiles from the northern grottoes. According to the chart it analysis the reason why the frequencies of utilization on two kinds of gold threads in different weaves are totally distinct from each other. |
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