Weaving Technology Of Integral Pleated Woven Fabric

In recent years, with improvement of people’s living standards and the pursuit of aesthetic.Woven textile fabrics are not limited to a simple two-dimensional shape and require more complex textures. Pleated fabrics with typical three-dimensional surface effects have been widely used in the field of clothing and textile industry.Zibo Silverman Textile Co. Ltd is a textile manufacturing enterprise with strong innovation capability. In 2014, the enterprises cooperated with Donghua University in research and development of pleated stripe woven fabric. Compared to other forming methods of pleated stripe fabrics, such as knitting, sewing and durable pressing, the method of integral weaving is more steady and unique. Also, this weaving method can simplify the post-process of the fabric.In this thesis, The pleated woven fabrics are divided into two types, including fully closed and semi closed. through analyzed and summarized the structure of each kind of pleated woven fabric,the forming principle and forming process were analyzed in detail. On this foundation,summarized three technical points of pleated woven fabric by combining, including the Double Beams Let-Off, the height of Back Beam and the displacement of Cloth-fell. And carried out the theoretical analysis of every technical points in detail.First of all, the subject under the guidance of the theory, conducted research and development of weaving technology for the small plain colour pleated woven fabric. On the basis of ordinary single beam loom, increase a negative let-off, it can satisfy the requirement of the plain colour small pleat fabric weaving.Secondly, on the basis of different color yarn, the subject conducted technology research and developing of the yarn-dyed large pleated woven fabrics, designed an asynchronous and selfreversal let-off device which applyed the arm shaft application by self, so warp tension kept stability, Increase the pleat width and improve production efficiency and stability.Finally, On the basis of pleated surface texture and color, increase pattern design of expression, combine pattern, color with jacquard technology, further improve the added value of fabrics. Through the optimization of yarn,the adjustment of preparation process and optimization of asynchronous and self- reversal let-off device to realize jacquard pleated fabricweaving, the final trial-weaving successfully finished and the fabrics belongs to high-class product jacquard pleated fabrics.This topic finished technology research and development under guidance of theory of pleated stripe woven fabrics in system.Provide technical support for pleated woven fabric product design, assist the enterprises in market promotion of pleated product, not only helping enterprises to solve practical problems, but also provide new clues for the design of woven fabrics.