| The pleated skirt is one of the most popular skirts favored by women,how to choose reasonable fabric and pleated proportion according to their appearance is the key to design pleated skirt.In order to study the quantitative relationship between the pleated skirt appearance and fabric properties or the pleated proportion,this subject selected representative skirt fabric studying the influence of fabric properties and pleated proportion on the pleated skirt appearance through producing,evaluating and analyzing different fabrics or different pleated proportion pleated skirt.The main contents and conclusions are as follows:Part 1:The research background and significance was introduced,then the presents research status of domestic and foreign experts in the pleated shape,skirt modeling evaluation and the relationship with fabric properties was reviewed,finally the content,innovation and methods of this study were put forward.Part 2:32 kinds of representative fabrics were selected to test the physical mechanical properties and drape performance.The pleated skirt length and pleat proportion were determined by market research,then producing them according to the relevant sewing standards.Part 3:The pleated skirt appearance evaluation index including the waist fitting,waist pleated uniformity,skirt body drape,skirt body fullness and overall aesthetic extent were determined by the experts interview and documentation.Through the subjective evaluation and analysis,the results show that the Kendall’s W test that reflects the degree of consistency of subjective estimator is effective;According to the K clustering method,the appearance of the skirt is divided into three types: the highest、medium and lowest overall aesthetic.The highest aesthetic appearance has the highest uniformity,drape and fullness.the medium aesthetic appearance has medium degree of uniformity and drape,minimum fullness.The lowest aesthetic appearance has the lowest uniformity and drape,the fullness is medium.The three kinds pleated skirt fullness has very little differences.Part 4: Using correlation analysis,from the two aspects of cotton and silk fabric analyzed the relationship between 32 pleated skirts appearance evaluation and the fabric properties whose pleated proportion is 1:2,then established the linear model by regression analysis.The results show that: silk pleated skirts appearance are more closer with drape properties.The less drapecoefficient,the more score on skirts uniformity,drape,and overall aesthetic.But the drape have no relationship with cotton pleated skirt.The compression property of WC have important influence on the pleated skirt.More easily compressed cotton fabric,its pleated skirt waist more fitting,skirt body drape and aesthetics more higher,but WC and silk pleated skirt appearance is not closely related.Bending property of B and stretching property of LT have obvious affection on the pleated skirt.Easy to bend and soft fabric have more beautiful appearance.The more difficult bending cotton pleated skirt and more heavier silk pleated skirt fullness more obvious.Part 5: Comparison of variance analysis found that the proportion of pleat on the cotton pleat skirt fitting,uniformity is more obvious than silk,the fabric kinds have more effection on silk pleated skirt fitting,uniformity than cotton.Fullness and pleated proportion is more closely,while the drape and aesthetic degree has more closely related with fabric kinds.Fabric properties have obvious impact on the different pleated proportion pleated skirt appearance.For the pleating proportion 1:1.5 and 1:2’s cotton pleated skirt,the fabric properties of LT、RT、T、lnB、lnG、WC、 0j10F(10)、F0d have obvious impact on appearance.Finally the best pleating proportion prediction model was established based on the fabric properties,and the accuracy was 93.8%.The research results can provide references for the production of the garment industry in the skirt pleated fabric and a reasonable proportion of choice,which is contribute to grasp the appearance of the skirt in the garment industry. |
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