This paper mainly studies the influence of different micro dissolution method for hemp fabric dyeing behavior of the reactive dyes and vat dyes,and explore the optimal dyeing process,so as to provide references for the development and application of micro dissolution and the improvement of dyeing properties of hemp fabric.Firstly,six different micro dissolution processes were used to deal with hemp fabric,and the fabric was characterized by FT-IR before and after micro dissolution,so that we can analysis the mechanism of different micro dissolution processes.The results showed that there was no change in the type of cellulose.Secondly,the reactive dyes were used in the dyeing of six kinds of micro dissolution system.After dyeing,we tested the K/S value and the rubbing fastness of the samples,and the effect of micro dissolution method on the dyeing behavior of reactive dyes was analyzed.The results showed that the K/S value and the rubbing fastness were the best after NaOH pretreatment and LiCl/DMAc micro dissolution treatment.Then,based on NaOH pretreatment and LiCl/DMAc micro dissolution treatment,we carried on the single factor experiment and the orthogonal experiment to the hemp fabric.In the single factor experiment,the alkali dosage was set up 30g/l,and the temperature was 45℃,55℃,65℃,75℃ and 85℃,and the results showed that the most suitable condition was 65℃;Then at the temperature of 65 ℃,the dosage of alkali was 20g/l,25g/l,30g/l,35g/l,40g/l,the results found that the alkali dosage of 35g/l is the most suitable.Based on the single factor experiment,the orthogonal experiment was carried out,and we set three temperatures of 60 ℃,65 ℃,70 ℃,and three alkali dosage 30g/l,35g/l and 40g/l,by testing the K/S value,rubbing fastness,tensile strength,bursting strength and tearing strength of the dyed fabric,we analyzed the most suitable dyeing condition:temperature of 60℃,the alkali dosage 40g/l.Lastly,Lastly,the vat dyes were used in the dyeing of six kinds of micro dissolution system.After dyeing,we tested the K/S value and the rubbing fastness of the samples,and the effect of micro dissolution method on the dyeing behavior of vat dyes was analyzed.The results showed that the K/S value and the rubbing fastness were the best after NaOH pretreatment and LiCl/DMAc micro dissolution treatment.Then,based on NaOH pretreatment and LiCl/DMAc micro dissolution treatment,we carried on the single factor experiment and the orthogonal experiment to the hemp fabric.In the single factor experiment,the sodium hyposulfite dosage was set up 15g/l,and the temperature was 40℃,50℃,60℃,70℃ and 80℃,and the results showed that the most suitable condition was 60℃;Then at the temperature of 60 ℃,the dosage of sodium hyposulfite was 5g/l,10g/l,15g/l,20g/l,25g/l,the results found that the sodium hyposulfite dosage of 20g/l is the most suitable.Based on the single factor experiment,the orthogonal experiment was carried out,and we set three temperatures of 55℃,60℃,65℃,and three sodium hyposulfite dosage 15g/l,20g/l and 25g/l,by testing the K/S value,rubbing fastness,tensile strength,bursting strength and tearing strength of the dyed fabric,we analyzed the most suitable dyeing condition:temperature of 60℃,the sodium hyposulfite dosage 20g/l. |