Research On The Application Of Dyeing For Chinese Tea And Fragrant Flowers In Ancient China

China have used plant dyes on the fabric dyeing for a long time,and used the "tea" early.Pigment extracted from tea leaves or tea with fragrant flowers,has been used to dye natural fiber fabric by direct dyeing or mordant dyeing."Tea dyeing" has been recorded in many Chinese ancient literatures.The author systematically analyzes the contents of dyeing material,dyeing liquor,dyeing techniques and study of dyeing processes,using a variety of dyeing methods and simulating the ancient tea dyeing experiments,acquiring and measuring the traditional Chinese color like lotus-seed-brown,brick-brown,black.The conclusions are as follows:Lotus-seed-brown(L=63,a=8,b=22)can be dyed by mordant dyeing with green copperas,old tea and black soya bean shells.Brick-brown(L=49,a=18,b=24)can be dyed by mordant dyeing with black tea or green tea liquor and iron slurry.The black(L=10,a=-2,b=-1)can be dyed by long time boiling dyeing with tea and green copperas as the mordant.In terms of fragrant flowers dyeing,the author choose osmanthus,plum blossom,jasmine,gardenia,rose,lotus,chrysanthemum,sophora japonica,the eight kinds of fragrant flowers as the main object of study,according to the historical literature of ancient fragrant flowers dyeing and the early stage of the dyeing results.Acquiring the traditional Chinese color like ochre yellow,ocher red,glossy dark green,etc.The conclusions are as follows:Gardenia can be directly dyed yellow(L=75,a=24,b=70),and also be dyed ochre yellow(L=66,a=24,b=63),red ochre(L=59,a=59,b=74),according to the time of fabric soaking.Sophora japonica can be directly dyed yellow(L=93,a=-6,b=61).Red(L=47,a=55,b=44)can be dyed with sophora japonica and sappan wood.Purple(L=37,a=15,b=8)can be dyed with sophora japonica,sappan wood and indigo blue.Brown(L=31,a=18,b=22)can be dyed with sophora japonica and green copperas as the mordant.Sophora japonica,sappan wood,one of the traditional Chinese medicine named Dan Huang can be dyed light red(L=61,a=45,b=46).Deep green(L=29,a=-16,b=1)can be dyed with sophora japonica and indigo blue.Glossy dark green(L=30,a=-1,b=16)can be dyed with sophora japonica and copper sulfate as the mordant,etc.In addition to simulating the ancient tea dyeing experiments,the author also used other materials to do dyeing experiments.Those materials include some mordant or organic acid,like aluminium potassium sulfate,copper sulfate,green copperas,potassium dichromate,citric acid,acetic acid,and also include some fragrant flowers,like chrysanthemum,rose,lotus,plum,jasmine,using direct dyeing or mordant dyeing to expand the plant dyeing experiment.The conclusions are as follows:Chrysanthemum dyeing four natural fibers directly are not good.The colour light cream yellow dyed by one bath mordant dyeing using aluminium potassium sulfate as the mordant.The colour yellowish green dyed by one bath mordant dyeing using green copperas as the mordant.The colour light straw wood grey and khaki dyed by one bath mordant dyeing using copper sulfate or potassium dichromate.Using the post-bath mordant dyeing method,the color are light yellowish green,yellowish green,vegetation grey,yellowish vegetation grey.The colour pink can be obtained by directly dyeing and its dyeing materials can be rose.Using the one bath mordant dyeing method,the color are reddish yellow,dark khaki,gray,etc.The lotus flower is directly dyed with red color.Using the one bath mordant dyeing method,it can be dyed with the khaki,dark yellow green,gray,etc.Plum are directly dyed yellow-green.The colour yellow-green can be obtained by one bath mordant dyeing with aluminium potassium sulfate as the mordant,the copper sulfate dyed yellow-brown,green copperas dyed yellow-gray.Four natural fibers directly dyed by Jasmine are not good,but it can be stained yellow-green or vegetation grey used copper sulfate or green copperas.The direct dyeing effect of osmanthus was not good.The yellow green was stained with aluminum sulfate.The color of copper sulphate and the pigment is yellow-green and the color is low.Ferrous sulphate was stained with the color of the bath media.The color samples of potassium dichromate and bath media were yellow,and the color of silk was the best.In addition,the author has also used tea dyeing or fragrant flower dyeing with our country’s ancient printing and dyeing techniques,such as relief printing,tie-dyeing,batik.A variety of printing and dyeing methods are used to widen the change of "tea dyeing" on the pattern.The "tea dyeing" can be applied in product packaging,textile design or household design and other aspects of the injection of more forms.The author also hope that the above can be a reference for the development of Chinese traditional plant printing and dyeing.