Design Practice Of Knitted Weft-inlay Women’s Outerwear And Fitting Evaluation

With the enrichment of yarn types and the development of computerized flat knitting machines,some knitted fabrics can exhibit a delicate and crisp style similar to the woven fabrics.Knitted garments also show a remarkable trend of being outerwear.And recently,People more prefer casual and comfortable dress styles.Therefore,a suitable knitted jacket with a special texture and a good wearing comfort can be a new dressing choice for formal dressers.It is also filled the blank of the forming knitted jacket field and has greater market potential.Firstly,this article summarizes the conception,influencing factors and the evaluation methods of the clothing fitness.According to the process of the knitwear design and making,this paper discusses the approach of the knitted jacket design.It provides the theoretical basis and direction for the design and practice of the knitted fit jacket.Secondly,the weft-inlay fabric was designed inspired by the traditional national pattern.Through the multiple adjustments to the pattern,yarn,and fabric structure,the design and knitting of the six fabrics were finally completed.The structure includes the combination of weft-inlay with jacquard,plain stitch and full-needle rib.Two samples selected from the design and one jacquard fabric picked was tested by KES-FB fabric style instrument.Use these three fabrics to design and knit the fit knitted women’s jacket with same size but different styles.Finally,after the garment knitting was completed,the subjective evaluation and analysis of fit and comfort were performed on the three garments,and the advantages and disadvantages of the three garments were obtained.The influence of different factors on the fitness of the garments was analyzed.Through the design and development of the weft insert and fit knitted jacket,as well as the subjective evaluation,this paper draws the following conclusions:(1)The weft-inlay structure has a low transverse stretch and is suitable for outerwear garments.It can be combined with the plain stitch,full-needle rib and jacquard and tubular plain stitch.In the design of weft-inserted fabrics,we must fully consider the performance of the yarns and rationally configure the weft-inserting yarns and the knitted yarns to achieve the desired appearance.(2)During the design and weaving of knitted apparel garments,the trial pieces of density is the basis for the calculation of knitted garments and a key step in size control.The setting of parameters,such as the degree of loosing,pulling,etc.during knitting on the machine,has an important influence on the appearance of the pieces.(3)By analyzing the fit and comfort of the garment,the most important factor affecting the overall fitness of the garment is the stiffness of the fabric.According to the different actions,the main factors influencing the wearing of knitted garments are the tensile properties of the fabric and the elimination of the front float.Based on the evaluation results,the ideal fit knitted jacket fabric should have suitable stiffness and certain tensile properties in the transverse direction.This thesis summarizes the approach of the fit knitted women’s outerwear,providing new ideas and practical experience for knitted apparel products design and manufacture.