| Jamdani is one of the finest varieties of Muslin decorated with colorful extra weft yarn on the transparent fine surface which is hand woven using cotton and/or silk yarn in the center of the country,Bangladesh,considered the root of Jamdani for centuries.As a result Jamdani has been recognized as the first GI product of Bangladesh.The artistic sustainable textile application flourished under Mughal patronage but rapid industrialization of substitute textile materials production & colonial import policies by British ruler the manufacturing of Jamdani & Muslin declined.The masterpiece textile still exists in "Saree” form,traditional women wear of subcontinent,under the nursing of very few mastermind weaver & support from Government.Using of hand driven loom & naturally dyed raw materials Jamdani has been considered as environment-friendly textile resulting the declaration of an intangible cultural heritage of Bangladesh by UNESCO.Jamdani is characterized by high transparency & breathability,lightweight,vibrant color combination,extra colorful weft yarn float over the surface in bold geometric,plant & floral motifs.The study reflects its glorious generations till present,special characteristics,suitable raw materials,weaving technique,unique pattern & design and prospects.The uniqueness of Jamdani inherent under its intellectual weaving technique which is highly labor intensive & time-consuming.Like a pride of Bangladesh & most valuable handloom product,Jamdani saree has been differentiated & diversified as fabrics to produce new & fashionable textile & apparel.Jamdani saree is an exclusive traditional & national costume for women as well as a symbol of rich culture heritage,national treasure & pride of Bangladesh.The saree’s own beautiful colors,the selection of yarns,the unique pattern features and exotic style all have certain research value.Conventional hand weaved Jamdani is extremely labor intensive & time-consuming.Wide varieties of patterns,styles & color collocations are vastly using in modern sarees with higher efficiency & productivity whereas Jamdani is still in a backward situation.Through the study of the literature and the existing finished products,this paper explores the automatic weaving method of Jamdani.By analyzing and extracting the structural features of serigraphy patterns,color matching,appearance & finished effects,tries to use of small prototype machine to implement semi-automatic weaving,then in order to shorten the weaving time & to slash manpower further try with jacquard technology to explore fully automated weaving.Therefore,the use of modern weaving technique to conduct an automated production of Jamdani,in order to reduce time & increase the production efficiency of weaving,resulting the big volume of supply to meet the demand for all social class has important significance.A detail about Jamdani saree including its history,properties,specialists,traditional manufacturing method,manufacturing zones,motif design,motif construction,colors,raw materials,classifications comprehend in the different section of this thesis.To explore Jamdani & find out the feasibility of Jamdani on automatic loom several designs were manufactured.One complete design was implemented on university laboratory which has been considered as semi-automation for Jamdani production.Another two complete designs were manufactured on full-width,same as required for complete saree,rapier loom with jacquard technology from professional weaving industry.As the requirements of saree,for different portion contains different designs resulting a couple of designs were selected to beautify properly.For both semi-automatic & automatic processing,2/20/22 denier silk yarns were used for warp & weft to achieve required characteristics of Jamdani saree as well as 29 Tex cotton yarn used as extra weft yarn for designing.The processing for prototype or semi-automatic weaving the selection of process design,technical parameters,yarn length selection,controlling warp & weft yarn tension etc.were conducted complying with the basic characteristics of Jamdani saree.Patterns were implemented manually with the crochet needle.Shuttle-less automatic weaving for Jamdani saree explores to reduce the lead time of weaving or increase the productivity & improve the efficiency of weaving.Regarding this automatic weaving firstly,patterns were designed using Photoshop software.Then BMP files were produced by Photoshop which was transformed into JC5 file in the design of gravure file.The gravure display module can read the JC5 file and draw according to the information of the gravure pattern.The formulation of technical specifications,warp & weft yarn combinations were arranged according to the requirements or characteristics of Jamdani saree.The cut-off technology was used to cut unnecessary extra weft yarn to show-off designs over the fabrics.A mechanical auto shearing machine runs having auto trimming technology which submerges floating threads from the surface on programmed size only and manufactured finished Jamdani saree.Couple of samples have been made to get the suitable result of this thesis using both in semiautomatic & automatic loom.To complete each experiment for making sample several processes had done.For both of sampling,the process starts form yarn selection & ends to finish weaved sample.Regarding semi-automatic sampling,three meters long length yarn measured as warp for suitable sampling instead of hand rocker which have fixed measurements means only one meter.Because of a large number(720 pcs)of warp yarns,the total of eight heald frames selected to wear warp yarn,and the method of warping is adopted in a smooth way.Yarn tension for both warp & weft,the motions for let-off & take-up were set properly for smooth weaving.Shedding,picking & beating up processes controlled automatically under the computer controlled system.Three different patterns designed on Photoshop & same patterns implemented over the saree using numbers of crochet needles with three different colors in different portions according to the construction of saree.For automatic weaving,the sampling process is done on the fully automatic loom at commercial fabrics manufacturing industry.Two complete saree patterns designed on Photoshop.Three different colors were selected for each design to make it colorful & gorgeous same as Jamdani saree.Color was extracted according to the corresponding color card from original saree.JC5 file generated from BMP file used directly for pattern development on sample.3000 needles selected to achieve proper width for complete saree & EPC,PPC selected according to the requirement of transparency & yarn count.According to the above mentioned finished product,this research obtains the following conclusion.(1)The Jamdani saree patterns are neatly arranged,with unique cultural implications and redecorative meanings.Usually,the colors with high brightness are chosen,such as red,purple and yellow.There are also some differences in the design patterns needed at different locations of saree.(2)Jamdani saree’s texture is light,its structure is loose,and its transparency is high.The pattern part on the saree is interwoven by plain weave,showing a bumpy visual effect on the saree.(3)Semi-automatic weaving of Jamdani saree can be realized by using a small sample weaving machine in university laboratory.The crochet needle is used to weave the patterns and weft the weft after the weft pattern is finished.This semi-automatic method can speed up the weaving of saree to a certain extent compared with manual weaving in the existing region & increase the efficiency of Jamdani saree(4)The jacquard weaving method is used to weave the saree,according to the extracted yarn weaving process characteristics,the appropriate setting of the processing parameters and fabric weave,and the use of the cut-off technology to cut the pattern on the yarn of bottom fabric,yarn weaving automation can be achieved. |
PDF Full Text Request