Preparation Of Polyester Linen-like Fabric By Water Jet Loom And Study On Fabric Style

Polyester linen-like fabric is the fabric obtained by replacing the natural fiber linen with chemical fiber polyester.The fabric not only has the surface style of the rough bone of the linen and the excellent performance of moisture absorbing and venting,but also eliminates the rough feeling of the linen fabric and the disadvantage that the linen fabric is easy to wrinkle.In addition,the price of polyester imitation linen fabric is far lower than pure linen fabric.In recent years,it has been favored by many consumers and widely used in clothing and home.At present,the preparation of polyester linen-like fabric is mainly through the use of hard-twist yarn with strong residual torque and the design of yarn twisting direction and fabric weave to form an excellent particle effect on the style of the fabric.For polyester linen-like fabric,yarn twist and fineness have strong effect on the style of the polyester imitation linen fabric At the same time,it is valuable to study on the effect of replacing hard-twist spinning with lower-twist roving on fabric style.Generally,hard-twist polyester yarn was employed to prepare linen-like fabric.In this paper,besides hard-twist polyester yarn,different amounts of gear-shaped polyester profiled yarns were used as the weft to imitate natural linen fabric on a water jet loom.The effect of the amount of the polyester profiled yarns on the moisture absorption and perspiration releasing performance of the fabric was investigated.The results showed that with the increase of the amount of the polyester profiled yarns,fabric wicking height increased and fabric moisture permeability and breathability were enhanced significantly.In addition,the absorption performance,one-way transmission performance and diffusion performance of polyester linen-like fabric was improved.When gear-shaped polyester profiled yarns in the weft yarn was 25%,the wicking height of the fabric in both warp and weft directions is greater than 90 mm,fabric moisture permeability was greater than 8000 g/(m2·24h)and the air permeability could reach up to 244.4 mm/s.This shows that the fabric has reached the evaluation criteria for moisture absorption and quick-drying of woven fabrics.Therefore,when 25%gear-shaped profiled yarns are incorporated into the weft yarn,a moisture-absorbing and quick-drying polyester imitation linen fabric can be prepared.In this paper,hard-twist spinning was replaced by the rovings with lower-twist to prepare polyester linen-like fabric.The 16 performance indexes of various fabrics were measured by KES fabric style tester to study the effect of yarn twist and fineness on the style of polyester linen-like fabric.That is to say,an instrumental test is used to objectively evaluate the fabric style of polyester linen-like fabric.The results showed that when 50%of the weft yarns in the fabric were replaced by rovings with the twist 1300 twists/m,the fabric was in agreement with the original polyester linen-like fabric in terms of resistance to deformation,resilience and extensibility.At the same time,the drape of the fabric could be improved and the touching feeling similar to natural linen fabric was enhanced;Due to the interweaving of the thick yarn,more holes appeared in the fabric,which improved the heat loss and transmission of the fabric,thereby improving the cool feeling of polyester linen-like fabric.Finally,the grey theory was used to further analyze the 16 performance indicators of various fabrics measured by KES fabric style tester to explore whether the fabric style of polyester linen-like fabric in which lower-twist roving replacing hard-twist spinning partly was the same as the fabric in which there were all hard-twist spinnings.The results showed that with the same twist of roving,the more the amount of roving was used,the closer the style and performance of the fabric were to the reference.When 50%of the warp yarns and 50%of the weft yarns in the fabric were replaced rovings with the twist 1700 twists/m with rovings with the twist 1100 twists/m,the styles of the two fabrics were consistent.At the same time,for the fabric in which thick and fine yarns were used simultaneously,the fine yarns played a role of crimping in the fabric,and the rovings played a role of uneven particles in the fabric,which not only saved costs but also further enhanced linen-like effect.