| Glycyrrhizin has the functions of lightening pigment,resisting inflammation,resisting fungus,and delaying oxidation.It is widely used in functional cosmetics such as whitening,anti-aging,anti-inflammatory and other products.However,the low solubility of Glycyrrhizin in the skincare product system results in a lower dosage and reduces its efect Therefore,it is necessary to adjust the dosage form according to the characteristics of the skin and increase the amount of Glycyrrhiza in the cosmetics to make it exert the best whitening effect.Vitamin C as a cosmetic ingredient has many functions including skin lightening,collagen synthesis and inhibition of lipid peroxidation.However,vitamin C is easily oxidized and discolored.Because of its unique molecular structure,Ascorbyl Tetra-2-Hexyldecanoate has good oil solubility and is easy to store.It can be decomposed to form VC after being absorbed through the skin.This breaks through the difficulty of active preservation of vitamin C in cosmetics.This paper discusses the pre-preparation process and application of Glycyrrhizin and Ascorbyl Tetra-2-Hexyldecanoate as whitening and anti-freckle products,using lipid nanoparticle and freeze-dried powder technology to prepare a whitening and lipid nanoparticle freeze-dried powder.Its physical and chemical properties,adverse reactions and whitening performance were tested and evaluated.First,according to the principle of good solubility,the oil packaging materials were screened out,and hydrogenated palm kernel oil glycerides were selected as solid oils,and caprylic/capric triglycerides and octyldodecanol were suspended as liquid oils.Through the emulsification experiment,glyceryl stearate citrate was selected as the main emulsifier and PEG-40 stearate was selected as the auxiliary emulsifier.Second,use the orthogonal experiment method to optimize the mass ratio of oil packaging material and emulsifier,glyceryl stearate citrate(primary emulsifier):PEG-40 stearate(secondary emulsifier):hydrogenated palm kernel oil glycerides(solid oil):caprylic acid/capric triglyceride+octyldodecanol(liquid oil,Mass ratio=1:1)=3:1:3:3.Adjust the process parameters of the high-pressure micro-jet method,the pressure is set to 800bar,and the number of homogenization cycles is set to 4 times.Third,conduct physical and chemical properties research,establish test conditions for the content of Glycyrrhizin and VC-IP,measure its particle size,polydispersity coefficient(PDI),Zeta potential,encapsulation rate and other physical and chemical data.The average particle size of the particles is 80.2nm,the PDI is 0.245,and the Zeta potential is-62.5mV.The tests of temperature stability,solution stability,pH stability,centrifugal stability,and light stability show that the stability of the system is investigated,and the overall properties of the nanoparticles are good,providing a good foundation for application.Finally,the prepared lipid nanoparticles for whitening and removing spots are prepared into freeze-dried powder.It is found that the freeze-dried powder prepared by using mannitol as a freeze-dried protective agent has the best effect,with compact structure,smooth surface and good rehydration.It has better storage stability under dry or low humidity conditions.It is less likely to cause adverse reactions in human skin,is safe to human skin,has a better melanin inhibitory effect,and can achieve a certain whitening effect. |
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