| In the cold winter,down jackets are widely loved and concerned by people.Down jacket fabrics are an important component of down jackets.A comprehensive evaluation of the quality and performance of down jacket fabrics is an urgent problem.In terms of fabric evaluations,most of them are subjective and objective evaluations of fabric handle or thermal and moisture comfort,while fabric style is also mostly about tactile or visual evaluation.In real life,when consumers choose clothing,it is a comprehensive process of vision,touch,and hearing.However,there are few researches that combine the multi-sensory style of fabrics,and the evaluation of handle and thermal and moisture comfort.Therefore,52 down jacket fabrics were selected to test and evaluate the comprehensive tactile handle and thermal and moisture comfort of down jacket fabrics,and independently designed multi-sensory comprehensive handle evaluation instrument based on the comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns(CHES-FY system).The research is made for related companies to evaluate fabrics quantitatively and comprehensively,and provides new ideas for improving the method of evaluating fabrics.The main contents and conclusions are as follows:(1)Test and analyze the comprehensive tactile objective handle on down jacket fabrics.Mainly from the three aspects of touch,vision and hearing,the comprehensive tactile style of down jacket fabrics was studied.The CHES-FY system tested the compression,bending,friction and tensile properties of 52 down jacket surfaces and obtained 16 mechanical and physical properties.The visual style mainly measured the drape performance and color of 20 different types of down jacket fabrics.The drape performance of fabrics with high density,thickness and thick coating was poor.With the help of a sound sensor,the sound signal when a human hand touches the fabric was collected,and two peaks can be extracted through spectrum analysis.Based on the testing principle of the CHES-FY system,we independently designed and prepared a multi-sensory comprehensive handle evaluation instrument,which can comprehensively test the fabric’s structure,vision,touch,hearing,and thermal and moisture comfort performance in situ.Through a comprehensive tactile style test on 5 down jacket fabrics with obvious differences,the results showed that the instrument can better reflect the fabric handle differences between different fabrics,but there was still a gap with the test results of each single style.(2)Establish a comprehensive handle evaluation model and discuss the relationship between the results of the comprehensive tactile and objective styles of down jacket fabrics.There was a significant correlation between the indicators of the CHES-FY system at the same test stage.The test results of the CHES-FY system were analyzed by principal component analysis,and five principal components reflecting the fabric handle were extracted from 16 mechanical indexes,which were named smoothness,softness,fullness,looseness and tightness and stiffness.Through the relationship between each principal component and 16 indicators,five main handle characteristic equations were obtained,and a comprehensive handle evaluation model was obtained by calculating the characteristic values of the five principal components.The drape coefficient and the bending performance indexes of the CHES-FY system were positively correlated,indicating that the larger the bending performance index value of the down jacket fabric,the stiffer the fabric,the greater the drape coefficient,and the worse the drape.The conventional statistical indicators in the auditory style are significantly related to the compression stage indicators of the CHES-FY system,which can be used to indicate the fullness of the fabric.In the spectrum analysis,the peak frequency can be used to indicate the softness of the down jacket fabric,and the peak amplitude can be used to evaluate the tightness of the fabric.(3)Evaluate the subjective handle of down jacket fabrics,compare and analyze the subjective and objective handle evaluation results.The subjective handle evaluation of down jacket fabrics was divided into comprehensive sensory evaluation and pure sensory evaluation.Pure sensory evaluation included three parts: pure vision,pure touch and pure hearing.Comprehensive sensory evaluation combined the three to evaluate fabrics.The subjective comprehensive sensory evaluation results had a high linear correlation and negative correlation with the calculation results of the objective comprehensive handle evaluation model,indicating that the smaller the calculated value of the model,the better the comprehensive feel of the fabric,which also proved the objective model’s validity and the feasibility of CHES-FY system to evaluate down jacket fabrics handle.The pure sensory evaluation results were not much different from the comprehensive sensory evaluation results,and the correlation was strong.Overall,pure tactile test results were more consistent with the comprehensive sensory test results.(4)Perform subjective and objective thermal and moisture comfort evaluation of down jacket fabrics,and establish a comprehensive thermal and moisture comfort evaluation equation.Subjective thermal and moisture comfort evaluation was divided into instantaneous contact warm and cold feeling,fabric wettability and comprehensive thermal and moisture comfort.The objective thermal and moisture comfort included five basic thermal and moisture comfort tests,including air permeability,thermal resistance,moisture permeability,wettability,and contact warm and cold feeling.The test results were divided into 5 levels.Coated or filmed down jacket fabrics had large thermal resistance,good warmth retention,low air and moisture permeability.The cold feeling of contact with thin down jacket fabrics was relatively stronger.Combining the subjective comprehensive thermal and moisture comfort evaluation results and the objective basic thermal and moisture comfort test results,a multiple linear regression analysis was performed to obtain the comprehensive thermal and moisture comfort evaluation equations of the 20 down jacket fabrics.The multi-sensory comprehensive handle evaluation instrument was used to test the thermal and moisture comfort of 5 down jacket fabrics.The results showed that the instrument can compare multiple thermal and moisture indicators of different down jacket fabrics.The comparison result was compared with the comparison result of the basic thermal and moisture comfort test was consistent.The comparison results were basically consistent with the comparison results of the basic thermal and moisture comfort test.But there were still large differences in the evaluation of individual fabrics.We provided an idea and method on comprehensive evaluation of down jacket fabric thermal and moisture comfort. |
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