A Development Of A Kind Of Chinese Herb Gel Mask With Whitening Function

The Chinese herb compound(hereinafter referred to as HZW)from Wumiao Shuixian Cream and a patent named a Chinese herb compound with whitening function and its preparation method and application is consist of Phellodendri Amurensis Cordex,Arrnebiae Radix,Galla Chinensis.According to preliminary relevant study basis,it indicates that HZW has some whitening effect exactly.Therefore,this paper aim to make a Chinese herb gel-type mask with whitening function by HZW,so that it could provide a reference for this series of Chinese herb cosmetics development.Firstly,through investigatig single factor,extraction process of active ingredients in the HZW is studied by response surface methodology and orthogonal design.It adopts the water heating extraction with the gallic_acid from hydrolyzing total tannic acid and the extractum yield as targets by investigating the four factors:extraction frequency,extraction time,liquid to solid ratio and extraction temperature.Optimum extraction technology of Galla chinensis using principle of Box-Behnkent design is:10 times the amount of water,60 degrees temperature of water,extracting 2 times,each time 120 minutes.It adopts the soaking extraction with the palmatine hydrochloride and berberine hydrochloride from Phellodendri Amurensis Cordex and L-shikonin and β,β-dimethylacry lalkannin from Arrnebiae Radix simultaneously measured by HPLC as target by investigating the factors using L9(34)orthogonal test:extraction time,quantity of the solvent times and ethanol concentration.Optimized extraction method is that 14 times the amount of 80%ethanol,soaking extraction 2 h.The above optimum extraction process is stable and feasible with high extraction efficiency.Cell experiment in vitro for HZW extract extracted in accordance with the optimized extraction process is carried out to evaluate its whitening effect.According to the basic principles of the formation of melanin in the skin.The whitening effect of HZW extract is determined compared with the positive drug group through studying the inhibition effect of HZW extract on morphology and proliferation of B16F10 melanoma cell,tyrosinase activity and melanin production in B16F10 melanoma cell.It will provide a scientific theoretical basis for clarifying the whitening effect of HZW extract and adding it to cosmetics.Then,the matrix formulation of the gel is screened.First,according to the appearance and character,_carbomer is eventually selected from different gel matrix types as the gel forming matrix.Orthogonal experiment is used to optimize the amount of carbomer,propylene glycol,glycerin and triethanolamine.The effect of borneol,menthol and azone on transdermal property of gel in vitro,and determination of optimum concentration of penetration enhancers is examined by Franz diffusion cells with simultaneous determination of palmatine hydrochloride,berberine hydrochloride and L-shikonin in prescription by HPLC and then calculating the accumulative permeation amount of them in 24 h.The optimum formulation of gel matrix is consist of 10%trimethylene glycol,1%carbopol,1%triethanolamine,15%glycerol,and 3%menthol.Finally,according to the 2015 edition of Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics and other normative documents,the three batches of product made in laboratory areinspected in quality,and to develop the product standard draft.At the end of this paper,according to the 2015 edition of Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics,acute oral toxicity test,acute dermal toxicity test and dermal irritation test are studied on HZW extract and gel.Finally,it is found that HZW extract could be a cosmetic material without significant toxicity,and gel made of it would not exhibit obvious irritation on animal skin.