A Historical Study Of The Spread Of Western Fashion In China Before The Anti-Japanese War (1911-1937)

Fashion communication is a new branch of communication.Under the background of "Western learning spreading to the East" and globalization,it is urgent to study the history of fashion communication.This paper will use the methods of historical research,comparative research and text analysis to study the image and text content(typical fashion topics,important fashion events and classic fashion reviews)in two domestic fashion magazines(Liangyou and Linglong)and related newspapers from 1911 to 1937 On the whole,we should grasp the characteristics of western fashion communication in China at this stage,including the main content,communicator,media,audience,localization communication strategy and its influence on the national concept at that time.The specific research contents are as follows:(1)what are the main contents of western fashion communication in China during this period?(specifically from the aspects of clothing,diet,wedding ceremony,entertainment and leisure methods,etc.)(2)what groups of actors and audiences did Western fashion spread in China during this period?(3)What media did Western fashion spread in China during this period? What localization strategies did Western fashion adopt in China during this period? What are the key points and difficulties of its dissemination?(4)What influence did the spread of western fashion in China have on the national concept in this period? Specifically,it includes the influence on aesthetic concept,consumption concept,body concept,feminism and nationalism embedded in the concept of national goods.This study argues that:(1)the content of western fashion communication in China includes not only various fashion objects and fashion symbols,but also the media itself;and(2)the actors behind the western fashion in the Republic of China include western people coming to China,political elites,media personnel,celebrities and returned students through newspapers and magazines,calendar advertisements,fashion ceremonies and window displays City landscape and other media,based on interpersonal communication,symbol communication,ritual communication and other forms,adopted a series of localization communication strategies,well grasped the local culture and national psychology,and spread western fashion material symbols and values to the main audience groups at that time,including urban women,middle and upper class elites and students;(3)western fashion made use of all kinds of cultural resources The definition and construction of "beauty" and "fashion" were completed by symbols,which constructed the aesthetic concept of the people(especially the urban groups)to a certain extent;(4)western fashion strengthened the self-expression behavior of women in the Republic of China through fashion with the help of the modernity trend of thought prevailing at that time,but in some aspects,it was actually the male chauvinism desire and capital behind it expression.Western fashion promoted the emergence of the national product movement with the identity of "the other".The national product movement politicized and nationalized the consumption of the Chinese people,and guided the people to complete the construction of their national identity through consumption behavior.