| Taking Mosha Town,Xinping Yi and Dai Autonomous County,Yunnan Province as the field point,this paper mainly takes Huayao Dai elegant clothing as the research object,including both the clothing itself and the cultural subject of creating and using clothing.With the help of the research on the life history of clothing,we can find the root of the phenomenon of understanding and explaining the transformation and circulation of clothing in Huayao Dai society,so as to see through people’s existence.Through the field study of a community to expand the lack of individual research in the previous clothing research.In short,"who wears it?" "How to wear it?" "What does wearing mean to an individual’s life?" These are the questions that this paper tries to answer.In the two chapters of girl Yinghua’s colorful tube skirt and mother Yinghua’s middle-aged tube skirt,taking a traditional flower waist Dai costume female craftsman(Yinghua,52 years old)in Sanjia village,Mosha town and her most important set of flower waist Dai costume as an example,this paper shows the natural life history of a Dai elegant dress from the three-dimensional perspective of the dress itself and the main body of the dress.Through in-depth understanding of how this Dai Ya dress began to be made,the whole process of the female craftsman’s production,all wearing occasions after the production,the events that occurred during the wearing,as well as the preservation,maintenance,improvement,change and processing of this dress by the craftsman,we can truly integrate the dress into the flesh and blood life of a flower waist Dai woman,and deeply explore the historical memory of Dai Ya women with clothing as the medium.In addition,in the case study,it goes deep into various life rituals closely related to the traditional beliefs of Huayao Dai.Through the costumes and their usage customs in the process of adult rites and weddings,combined with historical materials and other research materials,it has an insight into the cultural significance of the costumes worn and changed by Huayao Dai women at each life node,and reveals the sanctity and religious significance of costumes in these rituals.The essence of studying the traditional beliefs of Huayao Dai people through clothing is to deeply feel the ethnic character of Huayao Dai people and observe the closely intertwined relationship between clothing and people.In the transformation of the tube skirt from "craft" to "performance",continue to follow Yinghua’s line of sight and observe the transformation and application of Huayao Dai clothing in stage art after going out of Sanjia village and the local field of folk custom.From the perspective of body folklore,this paper combs the flower waist Dai dance,places the clothing in it to observe its change and development,analyzes the continuation status of the flower waist Dai clothing in the contemporary era,and places this change under the care of traditional clothing craftsmen,so that the clothing can return to the native land again. |