| Unidirectional moisture conductive fabric can transfer human sweat to the body in one direction,and improve the comfort of wearing.At present,most of the researches on unidirectional moisture conductive fabrics focus on the wetting gradient on both sides of the fabric through the finishing method,but the effects of fabric structure and fiber distribution gradient on its properties are less studied.In this paper,the unidirectional moisture conductive polyester fabric was studied from the point of view of the distribution gradient of polyester fibers with different single fiber linear density in the fabric.A total of 30 samples were prepared.In order to study the relationship between fiber material,fabric structure and water transfer performance,single layer fabrics with different warp and weft yarn arrangements and different weaves were prepared with fine denier polyester fiber,Coolmax fiber and honeycomb microporous polyester fiber as raw materials.On this basis,weft double weave fabrics with different surface and interior weft fiber arrangements,different basic weaves and weft triple weave fabrics with different fabric densities are prepared respectively.The capillary effect tester,fabric air permeability and moisture permeability tester,scanning electron microscope and liquid water management tester were used to test the wicking height,air permeability,moisture permeability,water content,water absorption rate,liquid water transfer velocity,maximum moisture transmission radius,single guide moisture transfer index,etc.The fiber distribution,structure The influence of fabric density on the unidirectional moisture conductivity is finally verified through skin contact surface dripping test,and the unidirectional moisture conductivity of the fabric is further optimized.The main conclusions of this paper are as follows:(1)When the raw material and density of the fabric are fixed,the weave coefficient increases,the thickness increases,the weight decreases,and the wicking height of the fabric increases.The material and texture of the weft triple weave fabric are certain.The weft density increases from 700/10cm to 950/10cm,and the thickness has no obvious change.The gram weight increases from 165.9g/m~2to 219.4g/m~2.The core absorption capacity of 75D/144F fine denier polyester is better than that of75D/100FCoolmax.(2)Honeycomb microporous polyester can significantly improve the air permeability and moisture permeability of the fabric due to the existence of micropores in the fiber.With a certain fabric structure and density,the weft yarn changes from Coolmax to fine denier polyester with the same linear density and F number,the air permeability increases by 20.10%-27.02%,and the moisture permeability decreases by 9.62%;The linear density of weft single fiber decreases,the moisture permeability of the fabric is enhanced,and the air permeability is weakened.With a certain raw material and density,the tissue coefficient increases from 2 to 8,the air permeability increases from 38.84mm/s to 209.30mm/s,and the moisture permeability increases from 9879.899g/(m~2*24h)to 11559.058g/(m~2*24h).(3)By using the structural design method,the fibers with different linear density can be arranged in a certain order between the fabric layers,so that the capillary aperture gradient can be formed in the thickness direction of the fabric.The change in the direction of the drop test does not affect the fact that the water always tends to be transmitted towards the side with smaller capillary aperture.The water transmission is selective.When the fabric texture and density are constant,the directional transmission of water in the fabric becomes significant as the linear density difference between the surface and inside weft fibers increases from 0 to 0.92 dtex.Although there is difference in hygroscopicity between honeycomb microporous polyester and fine denier polyester,the wetting gradient is not enough to make the two kinds of fiber interwoven fabric have unidirectional moisture conductivity,and the moisture transfer in polyester fabric is dominated by capillary pore gradient.(4)When the fabric material and density are constant,the tissue coefficient increases from 2 to 5,and the additional pressure difference caused by capillaries with different apertures on water becomes obvious,specifically,the difference of water content on both sides of the fabric,the difference of wetting time,the difference of water absorption rate,and the difference of liquid water transfer rate are greater,and the unidirectional moisture conductivity is good;When the fabric weave coefficient is greater than 5,the above values no longer change significantly.For fabric organization,when the material is constant,the weft density of the fabric increases from 700 roots/10cm to 850 roots/10cm,the difference of water conductivity between the two sides of the fabric increases,and the directional transmission capacity of water in the fabric increases.When the weft density of the fabric is greater than 850roots/10cm,the water transmission in the fabric becomes difficult.(5)When the fibers with low single fiber linear density are arranged on the side close to the external environment,and the fibers with high single fiber linear density are arranged on the side close to the skin,the capillary aperture gradient can be formed in the thickness direction of the fabric,so that the human sweat can be discharged from the inside to the outside,and the external water can be isolated to a certain extent,with good unidirectional moisture conductivity.On this basis,the unidirectional moisture permeability of the fabric can be further improved by selecting the appropriate fabric and fabric density.75D/144f fine denier polyester fiber and 36s honeycomb microporous polyester fiber are used as the outer and inner weft,50D/36F fine denier polyester fiber is used as the warp yarn,and the fabric density is 640×800 pieces/10cm,The weft double weave fabric with 10 satins as the basic weave has a unidirectional transmission index of 589.03 and excellent unidirectional moisture conductivity. |