Effect Of Two-dimensional Arm Root Morphology On The Structure Of Fitted Sleeve Cap In Female Collage Students

The “14th Five-Year Plan” of textile industry points out that the development of textile and apparel industry should practice “lean production,flexible manufacturing,green manufacturing”.In general,the textile and apparel industry is expected to meet the needs of consumers as the production motive,to small projects as the production target,to personalized semi-customized or even fully customized production,to reduce the inventory backlog and production pollution.However,the national standard size to height and control parts of the circumference size as the basis for setting,it is difficult to describe the diverse human detail morphological characteristics,consumers in the purchase of clothing products exist in the arm root,crotch,collar and other clothing detail discomfort problem.Therefore,understanding the characteristics of the human body details of different consumer groups and developing garment patterns suitable for the characteristics of the human body details of different consumer groups has become the key to improving the fit of garments,developing lean production and flexible manufacturing.In this study,161 female college students aged 19-21 years were selected as the measurement sample by random sampling method.Seven two dimensional morphological characteristics of arm root were collected based on human arm root surface characteristics points using photographic measurement method.K-means cluster analysis was used to subdivide the two dimensional arm root morphological characteristics and obtain the corresponding quantitative parameters.Based on the results of the cluster analysis,a rational and adequate understanding of the two dimensional arm root morphological characteristics of female university students was obtained,and a comprehensive description of the two dimensional arm root morphological characteristics of female university students was achieved.Based on the exposure of arm root curve and body surface characteristic points,arm root curve were divided into upper curve above the line of anterior and posterior axillary point and the lower curve below the line of anterior and posterior axillary point.The typical shape of the three types of subdivided upper arm root curves were obtained separately using the photo overlay method.The extraction of the typical morphology and control parameters of three types of upper arm root curve was achieved with the help of the photo measurement method and measurement auxiliary lines.In view of the fact that the three types of upper arm root curve are similar to each other in terms of length data,and the small sleeve of the fitted sleeve covers larger gap tolerance,the typical arm root lower curve morphology characteristics control parameters are taken as a general term,and the complete lower arm root curve morphology and control parameters are obtained by combining the plaster overlay method and handheld 3D scanning equipment.The two dimensional arm root curve morphology control parameters are extracted to provide parameter support for the design and drawing fitted sleeve cap structure of female college students.The typical arm root upper and lower curve morphology control parameters combined with the two optimization methods of real length and ratio calculation are applied to optimize the sleeve cap structure of two piece fitted sleeve.In order to compare the differences between different mapping methods,two mapping methods,sleeve depth and sleeve fat,were used to draw the prototypes of suit body and fitted sleeve.Based on the prototype of fitted sleeve,the typical arm root upper and lower curve arc height starting values and arc height data were applied to optimize and adjustment by real length and ratio calculation methods.Using the Style 3D virtual try-on software "try-on chart" function,we scored the comfort of the suit before and after optimizing the structure of the fitted sleeve cap.At the same time,10 students from school of fashion were invited to make a subjective evaluation of the aesthetics(degree of surface wrinkles)of the suit before and after optimizing the structure of the sleeve cap.The results of comfort and aesthetics evaluation showed that the comfort and aesthetics of the optimized suits were significantly better than those before the optimization,which demonstrated the effectiveness of extracting two dimensional arm root curve morphology control parameters based on the two dimensional arm root morphology characteristics of female college students to optimize the sleeve cap structure of fitted suits.It provides a reference for optimizing the design of sleeve structure and improving the comfort and aesthetics of group dressing.