| Camellia oleifera Abe1.belonging to Theaceae,Camellia,is a unique woody oil crop in China.camellia oil is obtained by pressing or leaching the C.oleifera Abel.seed.It is clear and transparent,and its smell is fragrant.It is rich in unsaturated fatty acids and contains vitamin E,vitamin D,vitamin K,carotene,squalene,sterols and other natural active substances with high nutritional value.camellia oil is mainly used as edible oil at present.There are few applications and researches in cosmetics,and the products are single.In this paper,the physical and chemical properties and efficacy of camellia oil were determined,and then three kinds of camellia oil cosmetics were developed through formula optimization,and the application performance of the prepared cosmetics was evaluated.The results are as follows:1、According to the national standard method,the acid value,iodine value,peroxide value and saponification value of camellia oil were detected.The results showed that the physical and chemical indexes of the extracted camellia oil met the standard of cosmetic oil.The contents of total polyphenols,squalene,tocopherol and fatty acid composition of camellia oil were determined,which showed that camellia oil was suitable for cosmetics.2、Using in vitro moisturizing method,camellia oil was placed under RH = 43% and RH = 81% for 12 h.The moisturizing ability of camellia oil was significantly better than that of deionized water group,and there was no significant difference with glycerol moisturizing ability.The results showed that camellia oil had good moisturizing effect in vitro.3、The scavenging rate of camellia oil on DPPH and ABTS free radicals was determined.The experimental results showed that the DPPH scavenging activity of camellia oil at 100 mg/m L was 78.61%,and the IC50 was 53.478 mg/m L;the ABTS scavenging activity was 88.62%,and the IC50 was 53.478 mg/m L.The results showed that camellia oil had strong antioxidant capacity in vitro.4、The absorption values of camellia oil at different ultraviolet wavelengths between240-400 nm were measured.When the wavelength reached 252 nm,the maximum absorption value was 3.88,and the absorption efficiency of camellia oil to ultraviolet light was the highest at this wavelength.In the range of 280-320 nm,the UV absorption value of camellia oil decreased,but there was a certain absorption intensity.It shows that camellia oil has a certain absorption effect on ultraviolet light.5、The effect of camellia oil on the survival rate of RAW264.7 mouse macrophages was determined by CCK-8(Cell Counting Kit-8)method.The results showed that camellia oil had no significant effect on cell survival rate.Lipopolysaccharide(LPS)was used to induce inflammation in cells,and an in vitro inflammation model was constructed.Nitric oxide kit was used to detect NO content.The results showed that camellia oil had an inhibitory effect on both NO produced spontaneously by cells and NO produced by LPS-induced cells.So as to alleviate the inflammatory response to a certain extent.6、Through formula optimization,the best formula of three kinds of camellia oil cosmetics was determined: the best formula of emulsion was: YG-2 1.0%,A165 1.0%,squalane 1.0%,IPM 3.0%,DC200 0.5%,camellia oil 4.0%,grape seed oil 1.0%,VE 0.5%,Hansheng gum 0.3%,HA 0.1%,glycerol 5.0%,butanediol 2.0%,deionized water 79.0%,preservative 0.8%.The order of primary and secondary factors affecting the emulsion was:YG2 > glycerol > A165 > Hansheng gum > DC200 > camellia oil.The optimum formula of the oil was : camellia oil 35.0%,isopropyl palmitate(IPP)18.0%,grape seed oil 14.8%,jojoba oil 15.0%,sorbitol polyether-30(emulsifier)15.0%,squalane 1.0%,VE 0.5%,tea tree essential oil 0.7%.The order of the primary and secondary factors affecting the makeup removal oil was: emulsifier>IPP>camellia oil>tea tree essential oil.The best formula of the mask is: 1,3-butanediol 3.0%,hydrogenated castor oil 3.0%,polyglycerol-10 1.0%,triethanolamine 50% 0.8%,natural moisturizer 1.0%,camellia oil0.4%,carbomer U20 0.6%,sodium hyaluronate 0.1%,nicotinamide 0.1%,sweet orange essential oil 0.05%,polyol preservative 1%,deionized water 90%.The order of primary and secondary factors affecting the sleep mask is: hydrogenated castor oil>camellia oil>carbomer>triethanolamine.The color,aroma,spreadability,PH,viscosity,cold resistance,heat resistance and centrifugal stability of the three cosmetics all met the national light industry standards.Compared with cosmetics without camellia oil,the addition of camellia oil can increase the moisturizing and antioxidant properties of cosmetics.The prepared camellia oil cosmetics have no cytotoxicity,can significantly reduce the content of NO in cells,and have certain anti-inflammatory effects.According to the national standard,the total number of bacteria,heat-resistant Escherichia coli,Pseudomonas aeruginosa,Staphylococcus aureus,molds and yeasts,mercury,lead,arsenic and cadmium nine health indicators of the three cosmetics were tested.The test results of the three cosmetics meet the requirements of the national cosmetics health indicators. |
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