| There are abundant textile relics unearthed in the No.1 cemetery of Niya site in Xinjiang.It is a precious material for studying ancient jingjue city costumes and their material and spiritual civilization.As a representative foot suit in ancient Northwest China,the study of boots is of great significance to the history of Niya clothing,the history of Chinese shoes and boots,the technology of making boots in Han and Jin Dynasties,and the history of communication and integration along the silk road.Taking the wool Brown embroidered felt boots worn by the typical 95MN1M3 male tomb owner in the Han and Jin Dynasties as the starting point,this paper launches the content from the two dimensions of research and restoration by combing the literature,measuring records,analysis and detection,restoration experiment and so on.Observe and measure its physical parameters,shape and structure,color matching,sewing technology,embroidery decoration,sewing process and other basic information in detail.On this basis,it focuses on combing the shoes and boots and embroidery materials in Xinjiang during the Han and Jin Dynasties,inferring the embroidery pattern,identifying the embroidery stitching method,and interpreting the connotation of brocade.At the same time,the material and dye of the boots were detected and analyzed by infrared spectroscopy,ultra-high liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry and other technical methods.The dye components of Phellodendron amurense were detected in the four color systems of red,blue,green and yellow.The red system detected the red dye madder commonly used in the western regions during the Han and Jin Dynasties.The blue dye was indigo,the yellow was speculated to be a single Phellodendron amurense dyeing,and the green was the interplanting of madder and indigo.It adds analytical data to the study of "Dye Road" in ancient China,and also provides a reference for the later protection and restoration and the study of civilization history.Finally,based on the preliminary discussion of the "scale" of textile cultural relics restoration,through the steps of material screening,embroidery pattern estimation,color restoration experiment of red and green fabrics,shape estimation and suture molding,the "original appearance" of the shoe is finally reproduced,which enriches the paradigm of textile cultural relics entity restoration,and can also be used as an auxiliary exhibit for the exhibition of the cultural relics. |