| "Human-clothing-environment" is a uniform whole in the research of clothing thermal comfort. Thermal comfort of human body can be kept only if these three factors are well balanced. However the weather and the human activity are always changeable when people are working outdoors or in an indoor work, the heat strain even the heat exhaustion may develop because the thermal insulation of common protective clothing is difficult or impossible to be adjustable. Environmental adaptation is one of the most important origins of traditional clothing. Practice has proved that the fabric and structure of Tibetan clothing are special, and its adjustable wearing ways can ensure the normal live and production of Tibetan people in a large air temperature difference environment of Tibetan plateau. The target of this study is to explore the environmental adaptation of national tradition clothing, reveal the thermal regulatory mechanism of Tibetan clothing, and help to resolve the present reseach problem of protective clothing used in an unstable environment.The analysis method of five grades was used in this study, from the beginning research on the wearability and the thermal comfort property of Tibetan Pulu fabrics,the seasonal constitute, the special structure and the thermal comfort of Tibetan clothing were tested, two unstable conditions with and with no radiation in a man-made chamber were set, thermal manikin testing and wearing trial were combined to investigate the thermal insulations of Tibetan clothing in different wearing ways, physiology indexes and thermal comfort of subjects, the thermal regulatory mechanism of Tibetan robe, temperature rating of clothing and its prediction models. The main findings were described as following:(1) The fabric construction and the wearability of the Tibetan traditional fabric(Tibetan Pulu fabric) were tested and analyzed in detail, including four aspects (fabric specification, structural parameter, thermal comfort property and durability) and seventeen indexes. The unique wearability of the Tibetan Pulu fabric and its principle were revealed by comparing with common wool fabrics and synthetic fabrics. The result showed that compared to modern industrial fabrics, Tibetan fabrics have the unique specification and weaving parameters, therefore with a better thermal property,better wind-proof and moisture-proof, better durability and higher resistance to surface wetting. This can ensure Tibetan herd the normal production and lives in the cold and windy climate of Tibetan plateau, and has a good adaptation to the local physical environment.(2) The structure, dimensions, seasonal constitutes and thermal property of Tibetan garments and clothing ensembles were tested in the laboratory. The photographic method and estimated equation were compared to analyze the applicability of determining the clothing area factor of Tibetan clothing. The result showed that the style of Tibetan clothing is much simpler than that of the western clothing, the most of which is straight line and flat pattern making, no dart and curve design. The whole Tibetan clothing is composing of underwear, shirt, jacket, trousers and robe. Due to the different of styles, the thermal insulation of Tibetan garments was among 0.16clo?11.34clo. Each Tibetan robe had three thermal insulations because of its different wearing ways. The fashion style of Tibetan clothing was much less than the western clothing. There were three categories of clothing (winter,summer and transitional clothing) in a year, the total thermal insulations of which were among 1.60clo?2.62clo. The estimate equation was suitable to predict the clothing area factor of the western clothing, but not suitable for the non-western clothing,such as the Tibetan clothing with a loose structure, the clothing area factor and the intrinsic thermal insulation of which must be determined by a photographic method.(3) The change principle of thermal insulations of Tibetan clothing in different wearing ways of Tibetan robe was intensively researched, and the thermal regulatory mechanism of Tibetan robe was revealed. The influences of underwear layer numbers and environmental factors on this thermal regulatory mechanism were analyzed. The result showed that the thermal insulation of clothing was influenced by their wearing ways to a greater degree, from regular way to one shoulder exposed way and to upper body exposed way, the thermal insulation of Tibetan clothing was gradually decreased.The prediction model of thermal insulation based on the coverage of Tibetan robe revealed the thermal regulatory mechanism of Tibetan clothing. This thermal regulatory mechanism was largely influenced by underwear layer number and horizontal wind. The air temperature, vertical wind and solar radiation did not affect the thermal regulatory mechanism very much.(4) The influence of changing wearing ways of Tibetan robe on human thermal comfort and TR ranges of clothing were investigated by wearing trial under no solar radiation, the novel TR prediction model of Tibetan clothing was built. The results showed that with the air temperature increasing gradually, the core temperature of subjects was stable, the mean skin temperature and the mean body temperature were slowly increasing in the whole test process, and the comfortable thermal sensation of human body were maintained in a long time. The skin temperature and the thermal sensation of right arm could be significantly decreased by changing the wearing way from regular to one shoulder exposed. The skin temperature of left arm could be stable and the thermal sensation of left arm was significantly decreased by changing the wearing way from one shoulder exposed to upper body exposed. There was significantly difference between the TR prediction model of Tibetan clothing and the present TR prediction models for western clothing. The western clothing have the unique TR for their fixed wearing way, but for the Tibetan clothing, there were a triangle area of environmental adaptation, in which each thermal insulation and TR could be obtained by changing the wearing ways of Tibetan robe. This revealed the reason why the Tibetan clothing has a good adaptation to the large air temperature difference environment of Tibetan plateau.(5) The influence of changing wearing ways of Tibetan robe on human thermal comfort and TR ranges were investigated by wearing trial under solar radiation, the novel TR prediction model of Tibetan clothing under solar radiation was built. The result showed that compared to no radiation, the increasing of air temperature was faster, but the thermal sensation of subjects were also avoided to be deteriorated with the increasing of air temperature, the thermal comfort of subjects was maintained in the whole test process. Compared to no radiation, the decreases of the local skin temperature of the exposed area of subjects were smaller in the changing of wearing ways of Tibetan robes under solar adiation, which proved that solar radiation was important and the cold strain risk of exposed area of human body in cold environment was avoided. Compared to no radiation, the slopes of TR prediction models of Tibetan clothing in three wearing ways under solar radiation were no change, but the intercepts were decreased 2.07??3.85?, which were agreed with the results of ISO 11079.By applying the theories of textiles, clothing hygiene, environment ergonomics,human physiology, engineering thermodynamics and modern statistics, the results of this study is expected to expand the content of the database of national tradition clothing of different country and area in the world, build a basic method to research the thermal comfort and function of national tradition clothing, and provide the related information to the design and product development of protective clothing used in a unstable environment. |
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