The combination of clothes and ornaments(or "ornaments")constitutes clothing.Clothing is one of the important symbols of social identity and national culture.Chinese traditional culture attaches great importance to costume culture.As early as the pre-Qin period,costume has become an important part of etiquette system.There are a lot of costume documents in classics such as "Three Rites" and in history books such as "Zhi of Public Service" or "Zhi of Vehicle Costume",which are the authentic basis for people to study the costume culture history.At the same time,clothing is not only the necessities of daily life and works of art,but also the symbol of changes in aesthetic fashion and the important object of literary description.Therefore,literary works have become important clothing literature.The study of costume literature in ancient literary works is not only necessary to deepen the understanding of the cultural connotation and artistic expression of literary works,but also of far-reaching academic significance to promote the study of the history of Chinese utensils,the history of famous things and even the history of Chinese civilization.Because of the integration of open social atmosphere and multi-ethnic,the costume culture of Tang Dynasty was different from that of previous dynasties,which made the costumes of men and women show different features from those of other dynasties.Tang Dynasty poets emerged in large numbers,poetry creation was prosperous,and the description of costumes in poetry was colorful.Because of the compilation,collation and dissemination of the Tang Dynasty poetry anthology Quan Tang Poetry,it is possible for us to have a comprehensive and complete grasp of the clothing literature in Tang poetry.Because of the endless achievements of modern archaeological discoveries,we have a more intuitive understanding of the Tang Dynasty costume culture,and promote the further integration of handed-down literature and unearthed literature in costume literature research.This paper takes Quan Tang Poetry as the research object or working background,tries to refer to archaeological discoveries,systematically combs the clothing literature in Tang Poetry from the perspective of the history of ideology of names and objects,and deeply explores the ideological origin,material form,craft level,social customs,aesthetic customs and language art behind these clothing literature,so as to broaden our understanding and recognition of Tang Poetry and Tang Dynasty clothing culture.Knowledge.The introduction defines the clothing,clothing names,clothing literature,and explains the compilation,collation and the author’s use principles of "All Tang Poems".This paper expounds how to extract the idea of names from the literature of costume literature,and emphasizes the significance and value of studying the literature of costume literature from the perspective of the thought of ancient Chinese names.The first chapter studies the men’s clothes seen in "All Tang Poetry".From the description of men’s caps in the Tang Poetry literature,it explores the wandering mood between entering and leaving the official service in the Tang Dynasty;from the description of men’s casual clothes in the poem,it analyses the delicate perception of men in the Tang Dynasty to the four seasons;from the writing of men’s caps clothes in the poem,it illustrates men’s thinking about the hierarchy of etiquetteChapter two investigates the women’s clothing seen in "All Tang Poems",and observes the women’s deep experience of color in Tang Dynasty from the perspective of clothing color.At the same time,people’s extreme demand for material also created the aesthetic tendency of light and thin women’s clothing in Tang Dynasty.In this era,the clothes that can best reflect women’s exploration of their own beauty are dance-related clothes,which show the unique sexy beauty of women in the Tang Dynasty.Religion in Tang Dynasty is as prosperous as poetry in Tang Dynasty.The daily life of poets is inseparable from religious life.Religious costumes are different from secular costumes.There are a lot of descriptions of religious costumes in the poems of the whole Tang Dynasty.Chapter three studies the literature of Tang poetry describing religious costumes,focusing on the clothes of the Buddhist family and Taoist costumes.From the change of the name of "gown" in Tang poems,we can find the traces of conflicts between Chinese and foreign civilizations in Tang Dynasty and the great compatibility of local culture.The Taoism of local religion in this period,due to the vigorous implementation of the ruling class,showed the extreme extension of color and style,which constituted a vast spiritual imagination space of Tang poetry.Clothing is the vane of fashion.Tang poetry is extremely sensitive to this vane.The policy of ethnic integration in the Tang Dynasty caused a large influx of foreign ethnic costumes,which affected the change of Han ethnic costume fashion.The fourth chapter focuses on the relationship between fashion and the change of Hufu clothes as seen in "All Tang Poems".With textiles,patterns,dyes,spices,Hu clothes and regions as the center,the influence of these factors on fashion in Tang Dynasty was discussed.There are many ornaments described in the poems of the whole Tang Dynasty.The fifth chapter focuses on the three most representative ornaments,"hairpin flower","hairpin" and "hairpin".Tang people respect the laws of nature,have different uses for the beauty of the four seasons,but also dare to break the seasonal attributes of flowers,the bright flowers solidified on jewelry.Tang people who uphold pragmatism did not give up the pursuit of beauty.The use of hairpins can prove this.The"chai" which belongs to women’s jewelry reflects the Tang Dynasty’s enjoyment of luxury and the grasp of life interest.Clothing comes from people’s perception of the environment and color.Tang people recorded this perception in Tang poetry,so many fictional clothes were produced.These clothes are based on the things existing in the real world and finally presented through the processing of the poet’s artistic imagination.The purpose of this paper is to use the method of literature research to wash out the real clothes from the Tang poems,and to sort out and classify the modified clothes.Finally,the traces of the thoughts of the Tang people are found in the Tang poems,the relationship between clothes and thoughts is explored,the literary barriers of the Tang poems are broken down,the bridges between poetry and society are built,and the aesthetic appreciation of the Tang poets is built. |