Textual Research And Discussion Of The Clothing And Diet In Yi Li·Shi Hun Li

Yi Li· Shi Hun Li,one of the seventeen volumes of Yi Li,plays a fundamental role in elaborating China’ s etiquette.Research on this volume by former critics is limited,which fails to constitute a systemic study.Against such a context,the author expects to make the study in this field more complete and organized.Centering on the clothing and diet in Shi Hun Li,this thesis is going to restore these elements described by the writer in a detailed and comprehensive manner.Since the dishes are placed inside the rooms,whose sizes are influenced by the space of palaces,this thesis also involves palaces.If readers don’t understand the layout of palaces,then it’s difficult to understand the methods of placing dishes.To sum up,the thesis develops with the clothing and diet in Shi Hun Li as the major themes,and palace in close relation with these themes will also be discussed.In terms of clothing,Que Bian clothes,Xuan Duan clothes and Fu Ren clothes are mentioned in Shi Hun Li.Que Bian clothes refer to the clothes for the bridegrooms,Xuan Duan clothes are for the rest of men,and Fu Ren clothes is a general reference to the clothes for the women.Que Bian clothes will be restored from their caps,clothes,shoes to waistbands,Bi Xi(the clothes covering the private parts)and their colors.In the course of restoration,this thesis will differentiate and analyze the opinions of the former generations.For example,both men and women can utilize Ji,Hong doesn’t equal Guan Juan,Wu is Guan Juan,Niu is on the Wu,Pi Ling is as long as 18.48 centimeters,Chi Mei is not exclusive to Da Fu(title of officials in Zhou Dynasty,which is higher than Shi)or officials whose titles are higher than Da Fu,Qu Xia is square,Dai Xia refers to the waist’s part of clothes,Ren refers to both Yi and Chang,Chang refers to seven pieces of cloth with three pieces in the front and four pieces behind,Chang is made up of two pieces of cloth,“絇”(Qu)as the decoration of the fronts of shoes is written as “拘”(Gou),Shen is6.93 centimeters long,Mei Ge belongs to Fu and so forth.Xuan Duan clothes will be restored from the following elements: caps,clothes,shoes,waistbands,Bi Xi and the distinction between Xuan Duan clothes and Chao clothes.Some opinions by the predecessors will be corrected.For instance,Xuan Guan is also named as Wei Mao,Guan and Wu differ in their material,Ying and Rui are the same for their material,the Qiu of Xuan Duan clothes is Gao Qiu and Hu Qing Qiu,“削”(Xiao)is written as “杀”(Sha),black Chang is for Shi of higher level while the yellow one for middle level and motley one(the former part is black and the back side is yellow)for lower level,leather is used to make shoes in winter and Ge is used in summer,the width of Da Dai is 4.62 centimeters,Ge Dai’s color is the same as that of clothes,the edge of Bi Xi can be distinguished as Yuan,Sha and Zhi respectively.Fu Ren clothes will be restored from the head ornaments,dresses and accessories,and some former opinions are corrected.Heng is different from Ji respectively,Ying worn by brides should be different from that worn by young girls,Ran is the bottom edge of Chang,the level of Xiao Yi is lower than Tuan Yi,Zhen Xuan equals Xuan Yi,Jiong Fu refers to the collar,Pan means Pan Nang.Besides,this thesis tackles some other issues:the different pronunciations of Tuan Yi in the past and at present,decorative patterns of clothes,colors as well as the collocation of clothes.In the process of restoring these three kinds of clothing,the author has referred to a wide variety of opinions so as to approach the truth and made great efforts to resolve some issues in terms of the investigation into the clothes elements in Zhou Dynasty(1046BC-256BC),measurement of the sizes,tailoring and sewing,analysis and differentiation of the varied opinions,correction of the pictures and so forth,which help to illuminate the relationship between different elements of clothing and assist readers to understand the original appearance of clothing in Shi Hun Li.The diet that will be studied in Shi Hun Li covers three elements: food ingredients,pictures of Zhuan and the amount of diet.Firstly,ingredients mentioned in the text contain Shu,wine,Tun,fish,Xi,Ju lung,Ji lung,Ji,Kui Zu,Luo Hai,Xi Jiang,Tai Geng Qi.Secondly,pictures of Zhuan include “the picture of a couple eating on the same table”,“the picture of a bride treating her parents-in-law with food”.Different people always draw varied versions of these two pictures.As for the first picture,the major arguments are as follows: whether three tables are used by the couple or six? The table on which Xi is placed should be installed horizontally or vertically? What’s the size of tables? What’s the meaning of Zhuan Yao Fang proposed by Zheng Xuan? Whether the quantity of food containers for the couple is even number respectively? As for the second picture,the arguments include: Whether the parents-in-law sit on the same cushion or two? Whether the couple have meals by sitting at the same table or eating separately by sitting at different tables? Who sits in the north seat and who in the south seat? What’s the meaning of Yi Jiang and Yu Shi Yu Shi Fan Zhi Cuo? This thesis has examined the old pictures and the pictures redrawn conform to the original text better.Thirdly,the amount of diet covers the amount of food taken for one meal and the number of containers.The dominator distinguishes the class of eaters on the basis of the amount of diet.As for palaces,the institutions on Fang(rooms for common use such as storing goods)and Shi(usually refers to rooms used for sleeping and eating)are usually understood as significant but knotty issues which remain to be resolved.The arguments of the predecessors focus on the issues: Does ancient people have Fang on the right side of the palaces? Eight major opinions are concluded in this thesis.Zheng Xuan and Jia Gongyan maintained that king and dukes have two “Fangs” with one on the right side and the other on the left side,Da Fu and Shi officials have Fang on the east side and Shi on the west side.Chen Daoxiang held that king and dukes have “Fangs” on both right and left sides,and so do Da Fu and Shi officials.Hao Jing argued that king and dukes have Fang on the east side and Shi on the west side,and so do Da Fu and Shi officials.Yu Yue proposed that king,dukes and Da Fu have “Fangs” on both right and left sides,and Shi officials only have Fang on the east side and Shi on the west side.Kong Guangsen and some other scholars upheld that temples of king,dukes,Da Fu and Shi have “Fangs” on both right and left sides;the bedroom palaces of king and dukes have “Fangs” on both right and left sides,and those of Da Fu and Shi officials only have Fang on the east side and Shi on the west side.Hu Peihui thought that similar to Ming Tang,the temple and Zheng Qin(the palaces used for ceremonial events and meetings of king and officials)of king have five bedrooms too,and Yan Qin(the palaces where archaic monarch and aristocrats rest)has “Fangs” on both right and left sides;the temple and Zheng Qin of dukes,Da Fu and Shi have “Fangs” on both right and left sides,while their Yan Qin only has Fang on the east side and Shi on the west side.Huang Yizhou maintained that Zheng Qin of Shi officials only has Fang on the east side and Shi on the west side.Cao Yuanbi argued that the temple and Zheng Qin of king have five bedrooms and Yan Qin has“Fangs” on both right and left sides;the temple and Zheng Qin of dukes have “Fangs” on both right and left sides with their Yan Qin only having Fang on the east side and Shi on the west side;the temple of Da Fu and Shi officials has two “Fangs” while their Zheng Qin and Yan Qin only have Fang on the east side and Shi on the west side.Among these opinions,Chen Xiangdao’s opinion upon “Fangs at both right and left sides” as well as Zheng Xuan and Jia Gongyan’s idea on “Fang on the east side and Shi on the west side”play a dominant role,which reminds us that these two points have puzzled us for a long time without a definite answer.There will be no cure-all answer to these issues,and what we need to do is to discuss the issues by distinguishing the levels of aristocrats as well as the types of palaces.After detailed examination,this thesis holds that the temple of king,dukes,Da Fu and Shi officials has “Fangs” on both sides while Zheng Qin of Shi officials only has “Fang” on the east side and Shi on the west side.The whole thesis will unveil the historical truth about these three themes in Shi Hun Li written in Zhou Dynasty.