Study On Complex Corlorfastness To Light And Perspiration For Textile And Apparel

Problems concerning the discoloration and fading of dyed products due to the combined factors of sunlight and perspiration are a commonly occurring consumer complaint during summer, especiall)' in some regions with high temperature and humidity. Hence, dyes with good complex colorfastness to light and perspiration are requested frequently by distributors in the recent global textile and apparel business. It shows that internal quality control to textile and apparel is developing from single factor colorfastness to multifold factors combined, such as complex colorfastness to light and perspiration.In this dissertation, studying on the fading mechanism and conditions and then the correlativity between them was discussed. What's more, data from current experiments and marketing research was analyzed. Finally, technical specification of complex colorfastness to light and perspiration with good trading property was put forward into GB textile industry product standard.Till now, several test methods for complex colorfastness to light and perspiration have been published, including GB/T 14576, SN/T 1461-2004, JIS L0888-1998, ATTS and MIZUNO, AATCC 125 and so on. However, obvious differences could be found among these test methods. Meanwhile, fading problems reoccur sometimes even when some of test methods shows that passed. Wherefore, differences among these test methods were identified in this dissertation. The effects of their own test conditions on the complex colorfastness results were investigated in terms of substrate of aqueous artificial perspiration, exposure time, exposure ways and rating standards etc.In this dissertation, some reactive dyes with relatively large market occupation in China were selected to adopt for cotton dyeing, including German DYSTAR, Singapore MATEX, Switchland CIBA etc. total 16 series. It is said that some of these dyes have better complex light and perspiration colorfastness. The colorfastness of these reactive dyes to light and perspiration was measured based on above different test methods. According to colorfastness ratings respectively determined subjectively (experimenter) and objectively (spectrophotometer), the relativity between different test methods was discussed in details by SPSS software, and the diversity of the current reactive dyes to complex colorfastness was studied. Meanwhile, dyes with satisfactory complexcolorfastness were found.Furthermore, effective information was obtained from marketing investigation and then analyzed completely, so that product technical specification of complex colorfastness to light and perspiration was obtained. This technical specification should be at least 3 grade to textile and apparel eligible products with direct contact to skin, including: outwear and leisure wear such as T-shirt, shirt, beachwear;outdoor work clothes, military garments, sports wear (short/long-sleeved top, vest, short/long pants) and accessories (golf cap, sports cap, cuff etc.). At last, the feasibility of such product technical specification was analyzed and validated, according to data from current experiments and inspection and quarantine organizations.Dong Xia (Fashion Design & Engineer) Supervised by Vice Prof. Ding XueMei...