Method Of Estimating Extreme Wave And Numerical Simulation Of Wave Propagation

A numerical wave propagation model of parabolic mild slope eqution coupled with Boussinesq eqution is developed to simulate the wave propagation in harbour, coastal and nearshore engineering. At the same time, some methods of estimating extreme wave, such as Pearsonâ…¢, Gumbel and Weibull distributings, are discussed.The advantage and disadvantage of the three methods are concluded. While analyzing Weibull distributing, the regretion method is used for fitting Weibull distribution to data.In the parabolic mild slope eqution model, the basic equation with large angle is used, and at the same time the wave energy dissipation item is taken into account, which can respond bottom friction sufficiently.In the Boussinesq model, the wave energy dissipation term is included. Near the boundary, a sponge layer for wave damping, depending on the reflection of the boundary, is employed. The different reflectivity of different terrains or barriers is achieved by making void ratio dispelling layers different in quantity and combinatory. This model can accurately simulate irregular wave shoaling, refraction-diffraction and reflection in shallow water.The instance indicates that the coupled mathematical model of the parabolic mild slope equation and Boussinesq equations can complement each other and more accurate simulating result can be achieved in both large and small area.