Study On Real Objects Of China Traditional Coats(From Late Qing Dynasty To Republic Of China)

From the late Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China, China is in the times of social turbulence and violent collision between the east culture and the west one. Since the development of dress reflects changes of one era, the development process of traditional woman coats, including blouse, lined-jacket and embroidered coat, which is generally regarded as one of most important dress in China history, is a question worthy studying further. In fact, this issue has been investigated for many years, however, most of works concentrate on the research of the historical document or the picture materials. The studies on the real objects are hardly involved. In this thesis, the real traditional woman coats (147 coats), collected in Donghua University Clothing Art Museum, Hangzhou Silk Museum and the private, were investigated by using various methods, such as: annal, classification, comparison, statistics and deduction etc.. In this thesis, our aim is to probe into the variation tendencies and regularity of Chinese traditional woman coats in design, ornament, cutting out, making and surface fabric from the late Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China. The results obtained are as follows: With respect to the cloth shape, the development characteristics of Chinese traditional woman coats was gradualness; showing that the long and wide shape gradually became shorter and wider, more and more reflecting the beauty of women's body. Decorate became simpler and decorate area trended to be smaller. Effect of the style of the West on the subject matter and the form of designed pattern became more and more remarkable. For the cloth color, due to the social liberations and the relief of feudal dress system, the choice in the cloth color was more and more rich and varied. With respect to the matrix structure, the development of the traditional woman coats was a process from the China traditional matrix type to the western three-dimensional matrix type. Making technology gradually transited from manual sewing to machine one. Traditional manual ornament crafts, for example inlay, boiling hot and embroidery, etc., were replaced by machine and showed a tendency of becoming more and more simply. With respect to the cloth materials, the main cloth materials in traditional woman coats were figured silk fabrics, among them the jacquard satin damask was dominant. The uses of silk, cotton, wool and fibrillia gradually increased and the chemical fibre and the blending began to appear.The results studied in this thesis shows that the fundamental development of China traditional woman coats from the late Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China is a process that the China traditional characteristic is gradually replaced by the Western, no matter for the cloth shape, the tailor, the making technology, or the fibre composition of cloth materials, the textile technology and the designed pattern. In whole, due to the influences of the social development and the western dress culture, China modern traditional woman coats are gradually of the characteristic of both the Western and the traditional China culture.