Research On The Officials' Costume Of Grotto Murals In Dunhuang Caves In Tang And Five Dynasties

The Dunhuang Caves, taking Mogao Grottoes as center, were first built in 366 AD, and finally formed to be magnificent grotto groups in variety after continuous digging from the period of sixteen countries in the Chinese history to Yuan dynasty. The grotto murals are rich and colorful including donators'images such as families of power, governors, monks of high virtue, the common people and so on, who sent money to build the caves, which correctly reflected their real life at that time. Thereinto, the grotto murals in Tang and Five dynasties are more vivid and richer, and the clothes they wore were of great popularity which was a sign of economic prosperity of the time. In ancient China, the costume institution had a close relationship with politics. Therefore, we could more comprehensively apprehend the political and cultural connotations of Tang and Five dynasties through a research on trappings of the office during that period.Introduction in chapter one makes a detailed analysis of the situation of study on togae in Tang and Five dynasties and the problems remained, and the intellectual merit of patrons of the Dunhung Caves, then classifies the formers'research achievements and makes them well-organized, through which this paper reveals the significance of probing into donators'dresses of the Dunhung Caves. The second chapter elaborates on officials'costume institution in Tang dynasty, involving regulations on variety and colors of the clothing. Chapter three, four and five respectively deal with Mianfu, royal robes, and lounge suit, on a basis of making information of grotto murals in Dunhuang Caves as a reference. Specifically, chapter three covers the costumes of the ruling families of the Han people and rulers of minority ethnic groups, and chapter four and five carry on the research from two angles, which are headwear and body wearing. The paper vividly analyses togae in Tang and Five dynasties, with the help of presenting image materials plus the classical documentation, which might serve as an example of learning about the costume culture of ancient officials.