Slowly Varying Wave Transformation In A Number Of Terrain And Physical Model Studies

The Boussinesq equations derived by Perigrine(1967), including the lower order non-linearity and dispersion relation, have been shown to be simulate the non-linear propagation in shallow water .The equations by Perigrine are referred as standard Boussinesq equations by many researchers. Boussinesq equations are more efficient compared to the three-dimensional model because the three-dimensional problem is reduced to the a two-dimensional one . However , the equations by Perigrine cannot be applied to the relative deeper water because the error of the dispersion relation increases with the increasing water depth.In this study a new set of Boussinesq equations with improved linear dispersion characteristic , linear shoaling characteristic and high-order nonlinearity is derived. Two parameters are used to improve the linear dispersion and linear shoaling characteristic of the model. The predictor-corrector of finite difference method is employed to solve the numerical method in one-dimension. The comparisons of the numerical results with test data are made to verify the numerical model. The shelf with a slope (1:20) and the same shelf with a model are employed in the experiment. The computer harmonic wave amplitudes arc compared to the measured data. Good agreements are obtained.