Development Of Industrialized Series Mannequin

China is the largest country of apparel consumption and production in the world. Owing to the influence of domestic and international factors, the development of Chinese garment industry has entered a new strategic adjustment stage since the year of2008, transforming the extensive management style to the direction of more variety, small batch, high-quality and fast-paced. Now is a personalized era, consumers are no longer satisfied with the mass-produced garments, people’s increasing requirements on personality and fitness put forward higher demand to fashion design and pattern making. Draping is an important technology in apparel design and manufacturing, it can meet this demand. Mannequin acted as an essential tool in the process of draping, it can help designers complete the style design and pattern formation effectively. The standardized design and manufacturing of mannequin is the focus of garment industry in the world.However, the mannequin of China is immature and still in the early stage, lacking of complete sizing system and inaccurate shape, the pertinence is not strong. The existing mannequin is almost tight without ease.The tight mannequin can position easily in draping, but it put forward higher demand to the operators’skill and experience. This research work is dedicated to add the basic amount of ease in the intermediate model to develop the mannequin with ease for Chinese apparel industry after establish the complete sizing series of mannequin, so as to reduce the workload in the process of draping and the differences by experience of operators, improve the efficiency of draping and the fitness of garments. The main work and approach in this study can be outlined as following:(1) Establishing the sizing system of dress form. The sizing system for the mannequin was established based on the [TC]2untouched three-dimensional scanning measurement and martin measurement of644female figure data aged from18to55in east China.(2) Constructing of the three-dimensional intermediate mannequin.20S-A was sleeted as an example, by preprocessing of the three-dimensional wrl data files which obtained through [TC]2scanner, we get the point cloud of human torso. According to the features of human body, the torso will be divided into seven parts lengthwise including94layer section; the cross-section in horizontal direction divides the into61type value points by the step of5degrees. Then MER method and cross-section symmetry were used to get the ideal cross-section of human model. And then the type value points can be re-sampled at constant angle increments of5degrees. The shape matrix of human body was built, the74cross-sections are kept in94lines of human characteristic matrix, the61type value points keep the coordinate X and Y in122rows of human characteristic matrix sequentially, and the Z coordinate on each cross-section is kept in the123rd row in human characteristic matrix. The characteristic matrix of an intermediate can be obtained through the average of calculating characteristic matrix. We got the20S-A intermediate characteristic matrix finally while being symmetrical. Then the3D body model for adult female with A-body-style aged18to29in east China were given attributing to3DMESH in AutoCAD for its modeling function. Referring to national standards, aesthetics and actual demand, the amendment of3D model was proceeded based on the changing of cross sections.(3) The study of ease distribution and the establishment of ease distribution matrix. The jacket mannequin’s ease was determined based on the analysis of the static respiration of body, underwear quantity and daily physical activity. The sample garment was made by draping in the standard naked mannequin according to ease requirements, then use [TC]23D body scanner to obtain the three-dimensional data of dressed mannequin and undressed mannequin, the torso will be divided into seven parts lengthwise including74layer section, the cross-section was extracted61type value points by the step of5degrees. By means of cubic spline interpolation, each cross section can be given by function in the polar coordinates, and then the type value points can be re-sampled using polar representation at constant angle increments. Using the comparative analysis method to compare the corresponding cross-section of dressed mannequin and undressed mannequin, then the ray distance ease at every angle in each cross-section can be calculated, we can find out the ease distribution regularities in characteristic parts, so the ease distributed matrix can be established..(4) Constructing the three-dimensional dress form with ease. Add the ease to20S-A intermediate through the application of the ease distributed matrix. Then we use reverse engineering module of Pro/Engineer to reconstruct the three-dimensional digital ease mannequin.(5) The production of materialized ease mannequin and its examination. Transform the three-dimensional digital ease mannequin into solid wooden original mould by CNC. The available ease mannequin was copied through the mannequin production technology; we added supporting sponge and wrapping cloth to the materialized mannequin to obtain the available mannequin which can pin in draping. And finally the ease mannequin’s accuracy and practicability were verified through size and shape inspection.