Identification Of The Damaged Wool Fabric And Its Damaged Mechanism

Wool fabrics often suffered from biological, chemical and mechanical damages in the process of daily storage, care and usage. If we can identify the damage forms of fabrics, the disputes in the garment industry may be reduced, at the same time, we can provide some advices on the daily maintenance of clothings.This article firstly doing a research on the types of clothing which people often care in winter and find out the most common damages to the clothes; Secondly, comparing the different damaged fabrics with the appearance of the wool fabrics and some chemical properties. Above all, we can get further study on the characteristics of the damaged wool fabrics, and get overall judgments to the damaged wool fabrics.This topic selected the pure wool fabrics, moth damaged wool fabrics, mechanical damaged wool fabrics, thermal damaged wool fabrics, as well as the treatments with Na2CO3solution, NaCIO solution, H2O2solution and Ca(C10)2solution in respective. Then using naked eyes, optical microscope, SEM (scanning electron microscope), Allworden reaction (Saturated bromine water swelling reactions, it means when the wool fibers are treated with saturated bromine water, fibers will bubble in different times according to different damages, we can judge the wool fiber damage forms by the bubble time.) and KMV reaction (Potassium hydroxide swelling reaction of the amine solution, it means when the wool fibers are treated with Potassium hydroxide solution, fibers will bubble in different times according to different damage degrees, we can judge the wool fiber damage forms by the bubble time.) to identify the damaged fabrics types.The results of the research shows that,under the optical microscope, if the damaged fibers appear a lunate gap or prominence on the cross section, it can belongs to moth damage; if there are broken filaments on the cross section of damaged fibers, it can be regarded as mechanical damage, since the fibers were stretch or break with some strength; If the fibers stick together, it can be attributed to heat damage, since fibers melt at high temperature, then stick together when the tem- perature cools down. Under the SEM, if the cross section is smooth, it is mechanical damage, since the moth like to eat the parts which contain less sulfur; otherwise it is moth damage, this indicate the appearances of the damaged wool are not affected by the contents of the sulfur. Under the treatment of saturated bromine, the moth damaged fiber bubbles at92seconds, while the mechanical damaged fiber bubbles at37seconds, since the corneous layer of the moth damaged wool fibers have been damaged, the cystine disulfide bonds in the scale are seldom rupture under the treatment of bromine water., so it can’t form water soluble proteins, the formation of osmotic pressure is slower. Otherwise, the scales of the mechanical damaged fibers are not broken, so bubble time can be faster.As for the chemical damage to the wool fabrics, if after the KMV reaction, fiber bubbles at1818s-3910s, and the fiber’s scales are peeling in the optical microscope, it can belongs to the Ca(C10)2damage; if after the KMV reaction, fiber bubbles at986s～2631s, and the fiber’s scales are peeling in the optical microscope, it can belongs to the NaCIO damage, since Ca(ClO)2solution and NaClO solution are both alkali and strong oxidizing, under the comprehensive effect, the scales of the fibers will suffered from the damaged; if after the KMV reaction, fiber bubbles at80s～419s it can belongs to the H2O2damage; if after the KMV reaction, fiber bubbles at598s-873s, it can belongs to the ethanol damage; if after the KMV reaction, fiber bubbles at1221s～3205s, and the scales are not peeling, it can belongs to the Na2CO3damage.