A Study On The Costume Structure Of Huayao Dai In Xinping, Yunnan Province

Huayao Dai ethnic branch refers to the Dai people who live in Honghe valley and the central region of Ailaoshan Mountain in Yunnan Province, which got its name of "Huayao"(colorfully decorated waist belts) from their simple while elegant, dignified while graceful costumes, especially the colorful or silvery brocade waist belts intertwined layers after layers on their waists. The Huayao Dai within the border of Xinping County, Yunnan Province is further divided into three branches, namely Dai Ya, Dai Ka and Dai Sa, in accordance with the names of their residences, the characteristics of historical migrations, life styles and customs as well as the names of their own branches before they moved to Xinping County, etc.The article focuses on the main research subject, i.e. the garment structures of the three sub-branches living within the border of Xinping County, Yunnan Province, combines the garments and document literatures, measure and conduct textual researches of the garments in the subject areas by using modern measurements so as to analyze and study the garments of each sub-branches from the origin of their garment. The article conducts rehabilitation studies on the structure, the most essential and decisive element of Huayao Dai garment, to analyze the rational connotations for the genetic consistency of traditional Chinese garments, the garment structural features determined by frugalness and respect for resources, the unique stereoscopic effect of the garments in traditional plane structure and the characteristics of valuing functionality in garment structure that decided by the natural surviving environment. The costumes of Chinese ethnic minorities share a common feature of being dually-structured and Huayao Dai makes no exception. The first one is the cross and straight-tailored plane structure combined by the sleeve line (horizontal) and center line connects the front and back of the clothes (vertical). The second structure is the decorations created by weaving, dyeing and embroidering techniques, etc. on the basis of the first plane structure. This dual structure forms the complete suit of garments by making mutual optimizations, which, combined with the unique decorations and accessories in Huayao Dai culture, forms the complete and representative garment symbol for Huayao Dai nationality. This characteristic dual structure embodies the dual significance of ethnic minority clothes, i.e. both functional and decorative.Based on the research of the garment structure of Huayao Dai in Xinping County, the status quo of the inheritance of traditional garments is of particular concern:the format outweighs the content, surface rules out the connotation, which indicates the gradual extinction of the essence of garment culture. The modernization drive can also be worrisome in this sense that makes us become more concerned by the protection of traditional garment culture of Huayao Dai nationality. We cannot continue the old habit of gaining material prosperity and enjoying life at the expense of traditional culture. Instead, we should input more energy, finance and policies in favor of cultural protection to preserve, inherit and promote the garment cultural heritage that innate to Huayao Dai nationality.