| Worsted wool fabric is the main material of high-end clothing, performance and style is mainly reflected by. In pursuit of light and thin and to overcome the problems caused by light and thin, it is often used in blends, cross twist interleaving process approach to the design and production of related products. Interwoven with the filament yarn made from thin wool worsted fabric, can achieve high-grade sense of the product, and the performance decay, shrink, wrinkle and other aspects can be better than the pure wool products, but in the course of the actual dress the fabric was found hooked severely damaged, was off the hook protruding filament yarn or fabric surface, taking seriously affect the performance and visual quality of the fabric. In response to these problems, we do the research in the following areas:(1)Determine the test methods. With YH-84 hammer-type hook silk fabric is hooked instrument failure test, discussed the number of nail angle, distance hammer to guide rod, hook turn affects the number of fabric damage hooked on, on this basis, to determine the appropriate test fabric the parameters are:hexagonal hammer from the guide rod to the hammer of 45mm, hook turn times for 500; the test method is reproducible experiments to verify the experimental results obtained stable and reliable test data reproducibility.(2)Analysis of defects characteristics of the fabric hooked. With the increase of the number of hook turn, the variation in the number of defects per unit area of the fabric can be divided into four categories:hill-shaped, stepped, flat-shaped, sloping; defect length hook turn increases the number and growth, when the fabric surface the number of defects in the rate of increase is larger, the smaller growth defect length; when the number of defects increases modest or even negative growth, the growth rate of the length of the defect is often relatively large, both showing a "Falling for this long" relationship. Filament content is higher, hooking more obvious morphological defects richer, when wool yarn ratio reduced to 3:1, the fabric is anti-hooking better performance, in line with the requirements of taking; mix different interwoven fabric can effectively improve the anti-hooked performance by out crossing performance fabric slightly larger than the weft anti hooked out crossing fabric; polyester filament fabric surface defects including large and sparse, including viscose filament fabric surface defects is small and dense. According to the fabric surface morphology defects will be divided into:dents, protrusions, tight yarn segment, coils, Komagari wire, the wire hook, big hook wire and hook off tufts define the concept; destroy the fabric is hooked into four stage:show surface defects - growth coil -filaments were formed - hook off tufts appear.(3) Analysis of defect characteristics. Combined with computer image processing technology, defects per unit area on the direct counting and measuring, get five characteristic parameters:the number of defects per unit area Y1, defect area Y2, defect width Y3, defect height Y4, defect length Y5, and through comparison between parameters, to obtain Y1,Y2, Y5 are level with the hooked Y6 certain correlation; regressionanalysis,Y6 on Y1,Y2,Y5 relationship is:Y6=5.981-0.097Y1-0.204Y2-0.446Y5, hooked on the fabric used to assess levels; according to extract critical parameters of each grade under the standard sample through.(4) Different forms of hooking destruction. Homemade device hooked needle row method to simulate the fabric level by destroying the object when hooked. Analysis of the pinning density, weight quality, sample load, the number of affected hooked destruction of the fabric, combined with the sample morphology defects, determine the most suitable experimental parameters; two different forms of comparative analysis hooked damage; fabric defects by analyzing the characteristic parameters, the number of broken wires obtained a significant correlation between the average length and visual level. |
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