The Utilization Of Stripe Design In One-piece Dress

Clothing pattern changes aesthetic perception and is one of the relatively direct means of expression. We call the pattern which appears on clothing and its ornaments as clothing pattern. In thousands of clothing patterns, stripe pattern is very common. The beauty of stripes not only lies in its conciseness, rationality, regularity and order, but more importantly lies in its capability of restructuring. Permutable combination of straight stripes is another important element of stripe aesthetics. The permutable combination design of stripes has enriched the content of straight stripe, which makes up the character flaw of straight stripes; its positive and negative spaces are mutually complementary; its sense of rhythm and sense of direction are extremely clear and powerful, which therefore brings vitality, impact, movement and expansion to the design, “and brings strict, sprightly and sharp feel to people”; it's particularly easy to attract people's attention and leave deep visual impression. Among numerous forms of stripes, transverse and vertical stripes are most commonly used and most favored by consumers and researchers, because this “simple” ornament pattern can visually bring “slim” look and beauty to the wearer. In psychology, visual illusion of transverse and vertical lines can be called “split visual illusion”. As the viewpoints of scholars on the psychological effect brought by this illusion are diversified. At the end of the 19 th Century, Helmholtz(1856) thought transverse line splitting was taller and narrower than vertical line splitting. Peter Thompson(2008) from Department of Psychology of The University of York, proved through experiment that people wearing transverse stripe clothing look slimmer than those wearing vertical stripe clothing. A few domestic researches also carry out empirical study on clothing splitting visual illusion. Chi Feifei(2010) pointed out that when the total line quantity of clothing has increased to more than four; females who wear transverse stripe shirts look 6% “narrower” than those who wear longitudinal stripe shirts. In the study of stripe pattern, more emphases are placed in the field of splitting visual illusion, while ignoring that stripes are lines. Therefore we can start from visual illusion, utilize the characteristics of visual illusion to study the characteristics of Müller-Lyer Illusion, Fick Illusion, Zollner Illusion, Hering's Illusion and Wundt Illusion and apply in stripe design, in order to give stripe design a solid foundation, fully utilize visual illusion to shape the body.This research selects subjects that are jumper of nearly rectangular shape. The research and experiment are generally divided into three parts.The first part is the research of splitting visual illusion effect. In the early stage, the relevant researches of splitting visual illusion are summarized through document analysis method; in later stage, relevant materials is fabricated to carry out Helmholtz Illusion to 178 volunteers, to study the effect of line splitting in Opel-Kundt Illusion on dresses.The second part's research is exploratory research method, which focuses on transverse and vertical stripes combination design after research on stripe splitting effect.The third part is the application research of Muller Lyer Illusion, Fick Illusion, Zollner Illusion, Hering's Illusion and Wundt Illusion on stripes.Through experiments, the following conclusions are reached:1) Through verifying Helmholtz square illusion experiments, it's found that in the same dress, while stripe widths and stripe spacings are the same, dresses with vertical stripes look slimmer than dresses with transverse stripes; dresses with vertical stripes look taller than dresses with transverse stripes.2) When applying Opel-Kundt Illusion, of the same dresses with the same width, the dress with vertical stripes looks slimmer than the dress without stripes.3) Design with more vertical stripes may not necessarily make the dress look slimmer; design with more transverse stripes may not necessarily make the dress' s look taller. The elements which determine the slim look and tall look are the spacing of stripes and the pattern that stripes are arranged.4) For the same dresses, with the same vertical stripes as design element, stripe arrangement being the same, if the stripes' positions on clothing are the same, the dress with wider vertical stripes looks slimmer than dress with narrower stripes. For the same dresses with the same transverse stripes as the design element, if the stripes' positions on the dress are the same, the dress with narrower transverse stripes looks slimmer than the dress with wider stripes.5) Designing stripes by using the Wundt Illusion and Muller Lyer Illusion principle and applying them in pattern can achieve the visual effects conforming to the illusion theory.Theoretical value and findings of the researchTheoretical value: the research broadens the research field of stripes splitting visual illusion and provides theory support for research of visual illusion in stripe design. In real-world application, it provides inspiration for customers to choose striped clothing, and provides stripes combination design rules for pattern research and clothing designers as reference.Findings include: The research 1) furthers Helmholtz square illusion, finds transverse and vertical lines' illusion effect rules under different spacings, widths, and arrangement; 2) combines illusion effect of transverse and vertical stripes, and derives transverse and vertical stripes' combination design rules; 2) takes Muller Lyer Illusion, Fick Illusion, Zollner Illusion, Hering's Illusion and Wundt Illusion as theoretical basis, designs stripe combination and verifies their visual effects in dresses.