Characterization Of Natrual Dyes In Ancient Textiles Of Qing Dynasty By UHPLC-Q-ToF And Researching On Dyeing Technology

Textile archaeology occupies an important position in modern archaeology,characterization of fibers and dyes of ancient textiles could make us deeply understand history of ancient culture and communication,and explore the possible lost ancient dyeing process.In addition,dyes characterization of the ancient textiles is an important step for the further archaeological research and restoration of cultural relics in order to prevent relics from irreversible damage in the process of storage.In this paper,extracts of the dyes from the textiles of Qing-Dynasty Imperial Palace were analyzed by ultra-high performance liquid chromatography performance liquid chromatography-quadrupole-time of flight mass spectrometry(UHPLC-Q-ToF MS).Comparing the data with that of the extracts of the possible plants sources obtained at the same conditions,identify dye sources of the textiles and infer the possible dyeing technology.We study the natural dyes in ancient textiles as follows:1.Dyestuff of ancient bright yellow textile from Qing Dynasty Royal Palace were extracted with mild extraction method and the extracts were analyzed by UHPLC-Q-Tof MS to identify the natural dyes in these ancient textiles.The results showed that berberine,flavonoids and indigo were identified simultaneously in extracts of ancient textiles.By comparing extraction profiles of pigments in plants as the likely dye sources by UHPLC-Q-TOF MS,we identified Sophora japonica L.and Phellodendron amurense Rupr.as the dye sources in historical silk fibres.The analyses suggest that the bright yellow textiles were likely dyed with a combination of these two plants and aluminium was used as mordant in the dyeing process.The experiment of color restoration confirmed our analysis.2.Extracts of the red dyes from the textiles of Qing-Dynasty Imperial Palace and natural red plant source were analyzed by UHPLC/Q-TOF MS,main components of natural plants were analyzed.Comparing the data of the extracts of ancient red textile and possible plants sources,the result shows that the ancient red textiles were dyed with the extractions of Caesalpinia sappan Linn using Al3+ as mordant,as well as the ancient pink paper sample,so we suggested that halogen lamp can be used as a display lamp.3.Dyes of several cultural relic of Qing Dynasty were extracted and analyzed using UHPLC-Q-ToF.The results showed that the green tassel of palace lantern was dyed with Phellodendron amurense Rupr.and indigo together;the yellow tassel of palace lantern studied in our experiment was dyed with auramine O so that we could speculate this sample was dyed after 1887;Chinese bule silk tapestry sample and blue back paper of wall painting in Palace Museum were dyed with indigo,glycerophosphocholine compounds were first identified in ancient textiles,which might be brought in through the dyeing process;pink dye on the ancient painting sample were also analyzed in our study,rhodamine 6G was identified accurately.Our results could provide reference for further research on textile archaeology.