Study On The Stripe And Lattice Fabrics Of European And American Fashion From The 19th To The Early 20th Century

European and American fashion on 19-20 th century was an important part of the development history of clothing for western and the world.The Chinese national silk museum as China’s largest textile and clothing museum permanently collected Lydia Gordon’s fashion collections in 2015,the collection which took her 35 years is of great research value and the content is very rich,it includes approximately 40,000 pieces,covering fashion,fabrics,sewing thread,plate making and etc.Dyed fabrics based on the European and American fashion that dated from the19 th to the early 20 th century were studied in this paper.Analyse the fiber’s degradation by observing the fiber apparent morphology.Test the yarn structure,the fabric issue,the color matching and the dye categories etc.Artificially simulate the color fading of dyed fabrics with light aging,and analyzing the degree of fiber degradation,we arrived at the following conclusions:1.It came to the conclusion that the cultural relics of the dyed fabrics include cotton fabrics and silk fabrics.A great number of the cotton fabrics are well preserved,a few of them have been deteriorating.The degradation of silks were serious.2.Different color yarns from a same fabric deteriorated greatly different,warm colors deteriorated more quickly.It was speculated that different dyeing processes and different dyes would result in dissimilar degradation due to their different sensitivities to the deteriorated factors.Obviously dyed fabrics are more sensitive to light,so protective measures against light should be took.Try to reduce the light irradiation time during exhibitions and pay attention to the choice of light bands.The apparent morphology of fiber,yarn strength,thermo gravimetric analysis and X-ray diffraction test results were available to represent the degradation degrees of cotton and silk fabric relics,but each of them had its own advantages and disadvantages.The silk fabrics tested were divided into three degradation levels,the third level showed that the cross-sectional outline was blurred,the fiber which was seriously embrittled would become powder when touched by external force;The second level showed that the cross-sectional outline was relatively clear,the cracks were deeper and more,part fibers had fragmentation phenomenon.The first level showed that the cross-sectional outline was clear and it had a small amount of cracks.Testing found that different colors of warp yarns from a same fabric had different degradation degrees.It was speculated that the different sensitivities of dyes to the factors which affect the fiber degradation will result in distinctive aging rates when fiber is affected by the damp heat and oxygen.The warp and weft yarns with the same color and from same fabrics had different degradation degrees;The warp yarns with similar color from different fabrics had similar degradation degrees.It was presumed that in addition to the influence of dyes,the organizational structures of fabrics may impact the fiber degradation as well.3.This batch of dyed yarns of fabrics being measured included single and partnership yarns,and single yarns accounted for the main part.Warp yarns: the twist direction of single yarns was Z,the twist direction of partnership yarns was ZS,the fineness of single yarns was 14.5-268.5tex,the fineness of partnership yarns was 45.1-132.9tex,the twist degree of single yarns was 28.9-164.6(T/10cm),the twist degree of partnership yarns was 36.2-44.6(T/10cm).Weft yarns: the twist direction of warp yarns was same,the fineness of single yarns was 8.4-150.1 tex,the fineness of partnership yarns was 38.0-124.4tex,the twist degree of single yarns was 34.7-150.4(T/10cm),the twist degree of partnership yarns was 38.3-48.1(T/10cm).The warp and weft yarns of the silk fabrics mostly were filaments,the twist direction of multifilaments was S,the fineness of filaments was 12.3-48.6tex,the fineness of multifilaments was 48.3-50.1tex and the twist degree of plied yarns was 36.2-44.6(T/10cm).4.The weaves of dyed fabrics were based on plain weave,it appeared in fashion fabrics namely rip weave,satin weave,jacquard weave,velvet tissue,etc.The warp and weft densities of cotton fabrics were respectively for 167.0-884.3(yarns /10cm)and 165.9-466.2(yarns/10cm),the warp and weft densities of silk fabrics were respectively for 169.4-884.3(yarns/10cm)and 162.6-430.0(yarns/10cm).Warp and weft densities changed with the changing of weaved tissues of fabrics,we came to the conclusion after testing and analyzing that the ratio of warp and weft about dyed cotton fabrics was 0.52-2.42,and the ratio of silk fabrics was 1.9-2.7,individual fabric got the ratio as 1.0.5.From the statistics of the color using of dyed fabrics,we knew that grid fabrics’ color given priority to 2-4 kinds of colors that represent British style;Stripe dyed fabrics took 2-5 kinds of colors as the main color and showed a recreational style.2-color-grid fabrics mainly match the colors with "red/yellow/blue/black/green /brown/purple" and blend white to palette the main colors.The stripes used "red/yellow/blue" and "white/black" as the main colors,and mix “white/black” for blending,the 4-5 color fabrics were mainly grid types,and the majority of matching colors namely "red/yellow/white" + "blue/green/black/grey".From the statistics of the frequency of color using,we have concluded that the percentage of the frequency of red,yellow,blue and gree was 55.6%,it was 37.8% when referring to black and white,and it became 6.6% when about purple grey and brown.We divided these fabrics into three categories from the palette of color using,including the college style,the casual style and the avant-garde style,the college style mainly match the color with 2 sorts,the casual style with 3-4 sorts,the casual style with 5-8 sorts.From visual effects,it could be divided into 2 categories: heavy fabrics in autumn and winter,and lightness in spring and summer.The heavy fabrics showed themes of classic,retro and nostalgic.It was characterized by four styles: fresh and lovely,mysterious and elegant,personalized publicity,and steady atmosphere when related to light fabrics.Typically color matching patterns included progressive and symmetrical.There were checked board lattice fabrics which had 2 main types of colors,changing-box for more than 3 colors,the stripes mainly combined the organization,structure and color to form the effect of convex,double-sided,velvet,etc.