Modification of ramie fabric with alkali and crosslinking treatment for wrinkle resistance

This thesis is mainly concerned with a study on the modification of ramie with alkali and polycarboxylic acids aiming to improve the wrinkle resistance of the ramie fabric. The structures and properties of the modified ramie were studied systematically with various experimental techniques. A series of characterisation techniques have been applied such as FTIR, HPLC, RGPC, SEM, TG, and XRD.; Alkali modification was applied to ramie yarns using various concentrations of NaOH and tension levels. The supermolecular and morphological structures of the resultant ramie yarns were characterised specifically. X-ray diffraction and FTIR analysis revealed that the maximum change in the structure of alkali modified ramie took place at 16% NaOH, resulting in a complete transformation from cellulose I to II. At the same time, the crystallinity index and fibre orientation decreased to the minimum value while the absorption properties enhanced to the maximum. When ramie yarns were modified with NaOH at the mercerisation strength of 16%, the tension level would strongly affect the resultant ramie yarn properties. The results revealed that tension mercerisation or tension mercerisation combined with partial-acetylation could diminish the tensile strength loss in BTCA crosslinked ramie yarns.; The effect of NaOH mercerisation on the crosslinking properties of ramie fabric was studied with respect to the reaction kinetics, physical properties, crosslink distribution, and dyeing properties. Kinetic study of the crosslinking reaction between ramie cellulose and BTCA was conducted by assuming the reaction was reversed-first-order. The results of activation energy implied that ramie was more difficult to crosslink with BTCA than cotton, and mercerisation made the crosslinking reaction easier take place. The results of the physical properties revealed that slack mercerisation did cause a serious loss in both tensile and tearing strengths whereas the tension-mercerised ramie also suffered a slight reduction in both tensile and tearing strengths. Both tension and slack mercerisation would bring about much more uniform distribution of the crosslinks. Crosslinking with BTCA decreased the dyeability of ramie and mercerised ramie fabrics. The parameters related to the dyeing process such as the equilibrium adsorption, dyeing rate and maximum dyeing capacity were all reduced by the crosslinking treatment. However, the activation energies of dyeing were increased. When compared, the mercerised and mercerised-crosslinked fabrics showed higher equilibrium adsorption and dyeing rate than the non-mercerised and non-mercerised-crosslinked ramie fabrics respectively. Pore model was used to explain the reduction in the dyeability of the crosslinked fabrics. (Abstract shortened by UMI.)...