| Fabric tactile style evaluation has an important role in fabric development and quality testing,and is one of the important judgment indicators affecting the comfort of clothing and home textile products.The high quality tactile style of textile fabrics has become the development trend of textile products,and more objective and effective quantitative evaluation of fabric tactile style has become an urgent need.In recent years,CHES-FY system has been widely used in the style performance testing of textiles such as garments and home textiles with high efficiency and low cost.However,CHES-FY system is based on in-situ combined testing,and the characteristic values are extracted and dimensionally reduced from complex deformations,so the physical meaning of the actual characterization of each indicator is worth exploring and verifying,and the theoretical basis of the indicator ranking evaluation algorithm needs to be further studied.Therefore,this paper made mechanical touch style test clamping device to reduce the cost of testing,and studied the fabric mechanical tactile style and rating system based on CHES-FY system.The main contents and conclusions are as follows:(1)Self-made clamping device was used to evaluate the mechanical touch style of fabric.This paper designed shear,friction and tensile clamping devices and installed them on the mainframe of the tensile test to evaluate the mechanical touch style of fabrics,which proposed a simple and low-cost method for testing the mechanical style of fabrics.The results of the self-made test clamping device and the corresponding performance test results of KES system were compared and analyzed,and it was found that the two test results were significantly correlated,indicating the feasibility of the homemade clamping device test method.The relative error between the test results of the shear clamping device and the KES shear stiffness was concentrated at about 10%,indicating that the self-made device was in good consistency with the KES shear device;compared with the KES friction test,the self-made friction test device can test the friction coefficient between the fabric and the fabric itself,so that the test results were not affected by the material of the friction block;this paper tested the tensile linearity and tensile recovery of fabrics under low stress by widening the width of traditional tensile fixture,and provided a more cost effective test method than the KES system.(2)Analysis of fabric mechanics haptic touch index based on CHES-FY system.Firstly,the repeatability test of CHES-FY system was conducted,and the coefficient of variation of the four basic style indexes was obtained to be less than 10%,indicating that the test results of CHES-FY system have good repeatability;then the physical and mechanical significance of the four basic style indexes of CHES-FY system was explored,mainly by comparing the test results of CHES-FY system with the results of commonly used instruments,and from the analysis results obtained a strong correlation between the test results of CHES-FY system and KES system,cantilever beam method and tensile clamping device,indicating the reliability of the test indexes of CHES-FY system and the ability to objectively characterize the tactile style of the fabric.Finally,the fabric shear performance was evaluated based on the CHES-FY system diagonal elasticity,and it was found that the diagonal elasticity results were significantly correlated with the fabric shear stiffness,and the elasticity index in 45° direction could effectively evaluate the fabric shear performance,which further complemented the CHES-FY system to evaluate the fabric shear performance.(3)A study on the hierarchical algorithm evaluation of fabric touch style based on CHES-FY system.This paper used CHES-FY system to test the objective tactile style of 60 pieces of fabrics.Using Python’s library of machine learning functions,K values were objectively selected using the Sum of Squared Errors(SSE)method and Silhouette Coefficient(SC)method,the K-means clustering statistical analysis method was used to classify the index test results into ranks.Then the Bayesian discriminant method was used to establish a fabric touch style grade evaluation model,and the grade evaluation of the new samples was realized.The subjective evaluation results and objective grade evaluation results were discussed and analyzed,and it was found that the subjective and objective evaluation results had good consistency,which indicated that the method of using K-means cluster analysis and Bayesian discriminant analysis for discriminating fabric style index grades was reliable,which provided a theoretical basis for objective evaluation of fabric style grades. |