Research And Application Of Pattern-making Methods For Men's Coats In Europe,1890-1910

1890-1910 European men's fashion is of great research value as the basis of modern men's fashion.In addition to the rise of the retro trend in recent years,people began to look for the classic shape of clothing.2021 lv's spring and summer men's show and 2020 Saint Laurent's men's show have a retro style of men's coats.During the late 19 th and early 20 th centuries,due to the rise of the industrial revolution in Europe,men's clothing gradually moved from being gorgeous and cumbersome to a simple,dignified and powerful style.Functionality and simplicity became the standard for menswear.The European men's fashion between 1890 and 1910 is the beginning of modern men's fashion,especially the men's coat in the late 19 th century is the most representative.In addition,the men's coats in this period are simple and less decorative.The focus is on shaping the structure of the panels to achieve the functionality and practicality of the garment.Therefore,this paper takes the European men's coat from 1890 to 1910 as the research target.First,we analyzed and summarized the background of the era of European men's coats between 1890 and 1910,and collected and organized the historical panel patterns of men's coats.Based on the results of the sample collation,we conducted a study on the structure method with X-shaped and H-shaped as the main silhouettes.Then we carried out multi-factor ANOVA and mean comparison by using the data obtained from the European men's coat in X-shaped as well as H-shaped in the eye-tracking experiment.This resulted in the optimal coat lengths for the X-shaped and H-shaped men's coats and the control areas that affect the silhouette of the men's coats.The experimental results provide a reference basis for the subsequent design of the work and evaluation of the experimental garment samples.Secondly,we established a database of European men's coats from 1890 to 1910.The CAD software was used to reproduce 58 patterns.The data of men's coats were collected and a database of patterns was established.The data were analyzed by descriptive statistics and correlation analysis,and the regression equation was established on the basis of which the method of making X-shaped and H-shaped men's coats was established.We verified the pattern making method and sample garment design through experiments,and got six groups of X-shaped and H-shaped men's coats.The accuracy of the pattern was initially checked by CLO3 d sewing comparison.Then carry out the sample garment production with evaluation and analysis.Based on the results of the research,the study is extended in practice and the series is designed.The research of this paper scientifically and systematically verifies that the structure method established by the research is reasonable and accurate.It provides ideas for reproduction and innovative design.This thesis is a strong practical reference for studying the data and structural methods of European men's coats between 1890 and 1910.At the same time,it is a good and innovative guide for the retro design of modern men's coats.