A Study On Occurrence, Development And Spreading Of Warp-floated Faced Tabby

Hakata-ori (博多织) is the general name of fabrics which are produced by members of Hakata -ori Industries in Hakata (博多) (part of Fukuoka City, Fukuoka Prefecture, Japan) and its surrounding areas. There are many kinds of fabric, such as Tabby(平纹织物), Twill(斜纹织 物), Satin(缎纹织物), Gauze(罗织物) and also fabrics which form patterns by warp threads (经 线显花织物), or weft threads (纬线显花织物), it is one of the pillars of Japan modern textile industry. Among various Hakata-ori, Kenjyo Hakata-obi ( 献上博多带 ) is the most representative one with a long history. It is very beautiful and graceful, and was famous for its unique grain(组织结构), weaving technology and pattern. Generally it is used as a belt for Japanese kimonos. In 1976, it was appointed as " Traditional Handcraft" by Japanese government.Then, what kind of fabric is it? With what kind of loom did it make into? When did it begin to be produced? How about its development? All the times, opinions were varied for these questions, unable to decide which is right, and still no final conclusion yet so far. A common tale about the origin of Hakata-ori is as follows. "Mr. Yazaemon Mitsuta, who is a certain Hakata merchant, went to Song Dynasty together with a priest of Horyu Temple in 1235. After six years stayed in China, Song Dynasty textile technology was brought back to Hakata by them in 1241, thus production of Hakata-ori started." However, there is no evidence in considering this tale to be the origin of Hakata-ori.Because the extant historical records about Hakata-ori are extremely rare, unearthed relics are also not many, it is very difficult to study Hakata-ori, and a mighty and miscellaneous research work to solve the origin problem of Kenjyo Hakata-obi, which need a lot of investigation anddemonstration. Setting out in line with these questions, this doctorate dissertation "A study on Occurrence, Development and Spreading of Warp-floated Faced Tabby" has reviewed the history of Hakata-ori, and systematized them fully, and classified the Warp-floated Faced Tabby (平纹地经浮纹织物) to three parts in terms of fabric grain, to which Hakata-ori are subordinated. Occurrence, development and spreading, and relationship between Chinese and Japanese Warp-floated Faced Tabby are also analyzed. It is only part of research on the origin of Kenjyo Hakata-obi.Several most important parts and innovative places are as follows.1. A point of view that the main reason for the occurrence, development and spreading of Warp-floated Faced Tabby in China are the invention of silk, is firstly put forward in the thesis. The author holds that, it is the silk's characteristics, such as good luster, high tenacity and good elasticity, which meet the warp's request for aesthetics, that make China didn't give up the concept of Warp Threads to form Pattern(经线显花技术) so early as other western countries. Until Han Dynasty, a lot of Warp-floated Faced Tabby were still made, and the technology of Warp Threads to form Pattern were so developed that make the Warp-Floated Faced tabby become the fundamental part in Chinese textile culture.2. Another new point is that, when analyzing fabrics, factors such as personal aesthetics, weaver's intension and national cultural background shall be considered into. Especially when thinking of ancient fabrics in China, it is very necessary to analyze them in view of "warp".The invention of the silk makes the fabric of China begin to move along die road toward Warp Threads to form Pattern Tabby, the technique of Warp Threads to form Pattern is much more developed than any other areas in the world. The Warring States, Qin and Han Dynasty were the peak time in producing The Warp-floated Faced Tabby, and the Shang and Yin Dynasty is the time in which the foundation was formed. So considered from this, analyze the ancient fabric in China, especially fabric of Shang Yin Dynasty, it is very necessary to consider in view of "Warp".3. The most important kind of Warp Threads to form Pattern Tabby is The Warp-floated Faced Tabby. The Warp-floated...