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A Historical & Culture Study On Ancient Headwear Of China

Posted on:2008-05-24Degree:DoctorType:Dissertation
Country:ChinaCandidate:X Z JiaFull Text:PDF
GTID:1115360215977612Subject:Costume design and engineering
Abstract/Summary:PDF Full Text Request
Chinese Ancient Headgear, not only can be recognized as the important element in Chinese Ornament Culture, but as a brilliant and glossy pearl in World Ornament Cultural Treasure, which own the features: the unique style, the complete system and the profound coherence. Research on the Chinese Ancient Ornament-Headgear, mainly focus on the content on the classification, origin, style, evolution, courtesy system, culture and technique, which own by social higher male ranking, which had been in the stipulation and the system by code, order and courtesy custom, at the Chinese Ancient historical periods, beginning from the Wei-Jin and North-South Dynasty, extending at the Sui Dynasty, Tang Dynasty, Five-stage Dynasty, and Song and Ming Dynasty, the authorities were manipulated by Han people (the Han People is the largest ethnic group of the Chinese race) and influenced by the culture of Confucianism.The methods on research Chinese Ancient Headgear, the determinative view points and evidence and the suspicious existence are adopted reasonably, and with integration of vertical direction and the horizontal direction, foundationally on comprehensive research with the documentary, the figure and the objects, regarding the evidence inspection, the proof and the ordering as the important principles, pursuing on the equidistant and entire summary and the detailed and infiltration content. The content and the viewpoints in the book, Chinese Ancient Headgear, are listed as follow:First in first:The viewpoint, Chinese Ancient Headgear should be classified as the Crest, the Hats and the Kerchief, is point out after the Chinese Ancient Headgear had been classified scientifically and reasonably, foundationally on the integration of the historical documentary and the research achievement, regarding the function, the online, and the framework, the wearing as the standard. And the symbol of the feature of the Crest is the bound-chip, which was more often applied to the courtesy dressing and the decoration; The symbol of the feature of the Hats indicates for spiking, wearing, hiding and covering, which was more often applied to the Official Suits and the ordinary wearing, to cold protection, the symbol of the feature of the kerchief was bound-twist Hair, which was more often applied to the official dressing and the ordinary wearing to the hair collection. The Headgear of the Crests was classified as the "exclusive type", the "separation type" and the "compound type"; And the Headgear of the Hats was classified as the "semi-sphere type", the "vertical cylinder", and the "caltrop type"; And the headgear of the kerchief was classified as the "twisted-hair type" and the "head-packed type". The content of this part is the theoretical foundation and the necessary for the detailed and the systematical extension on the academic paper "Chinese Ancient Headgear".Secondly:The detailed description is extended on the main factors of the framework of the individual and the relative cultural coherence, with the documentary and the historical reference as the cutting- point, incorporating on the proof with the illustration and the reference on objects, under the entire comprehension, according to the classification as the "main body", "fixed crest" and the "profile of decoration". And the Main Body were classified as "the upper", "the medium", "the lower and the interior"; the fixed crest was classified as the "Guan Ji" and the "fixed-bind" and the decorative section was classified as the top, the side section and the reverse section.Thirdly:The wholly historical dissemination and inheritance, and the system of the development, the respective influence, as well as the relationship between the social aesthetics appreciation and the migration of the political systems, the ranges and the periods in Chinese Ancient history, beginning at the Han Dynasty, extending at the Wei-Jin and North-South Dynasty, Sui Dynasty, Tang Dynasty, Five-stage and Song Dynasty and Ming Dynasty, the consequence on research according to the Crest, the Hats and the Kerchief are analyzed and proved systematically and entirely, foundationally on the comprehensive analysis with documentary, illustration and objects, regarding the entire summary and the detailed description.Fourthly:Also the viewpoint of the Chinese Ancient Ornament should be classified as the official system and the civil system is point out, foundationally on the entire investigation and analysis on wearing situation ornament combination and ranking difference system of the headgear system in the historical periods by Han People Authorities, from the concern-point on the dressers status, and dress situation. And also, Official Ornament includes the "courtesy dressing ornament'" and "public dressing ornament" and the "ordinary dressing ornament". And courtesy dressing ornament is classified as the "blessing dress", "mourning dress" , "guest-dress" , "military uniform" , "banquet-dress" according to the different courtesy ceremonious occasion.Fifthly:The concrete style are researched and analyzed mainly, such as the"Mian Cap", "Bian Cap", "Wu Bian Big Cap", "Jin Xian Cap", "Fu Tou","Official Cap", "Jin Zeng", incorporating on the ordering, contributing,and analyzing, with the illustration and figure and objects, foundationallyon the entire investigation on the historical documentary and the researchachievement, from the origin, the mode, the evolution, the technique andthe material and substance. And the "Mian Cap" was used to the ancientemperors, the marquises, the ministers and nobleman as the mostrespectful courtesy crest when they participate at the ceremony; Anancient cap worn on ceremonious occasions was a courtesy crest used bynobleman in Chinese Ancient history, there the "Pi Bian", "Wei Bian","Jue Bian" were classified, and usually combined with courtesy dressing;"Tong Tian Hat" was a headgear, which specially for emperors bysuccessive Dynasty; "Jin Xian Guan" was worn by cultural officials,which had the feature of the extended usage, and the profound impact;"Wu Bian Da Guan" was worn by military officers, which origins fromthe "ears-covered Hat" by Hu People at the War Period.
Keywords/Search Tags:headgear, dress, ceremony and propriety, institution, crest, hat, kerchief, hair worn in a bun or coil, crown, a man's cap used in ancient times, model, structure
PDF Full Text Request
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